Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I'm pretty sure you can replace any Hollowtech II crankset with any other Hollowtech II crankset, as far as the BB is concerned.

If you wind the pedal in from the other side of the crank you can sometimes clean out the thread enough for it to be good again. That pedal is in at such an angle that it probably has don’t too much damage. It’s not like the whole thread has been cross threaded.

Thanks, but it seems to have gradually worked it's way out stripping out all the thread as it went!

Will this do? https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/shimano-fc-rs500-chainset-172-5mm-50-34-11s.470992/

Do Wellgo B143 pedals have x2 bearings or is it a bushing/bearing combination.

I had some Funn Black Magic pedals develop a click after a few months so I’m looking for something more robust.

*I’m on tour so options are limited, I can get the Wellgo pedals for £62 or XT M8410 for £118.

The other option is to service the Funn pedals every 2000km…

I've got a Sturmey Archer X-RD3 that the insides have gotten glooped up. I decided that the easiest way to fix this in the fastest time was to buy a new set of internals, and then clean the old set in my own time, at which point I would have a spare for the next time I needed one.

Searching the internet lead me to https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/sturmey-archer-internal-for-xlrd3/ (the HSX167) which I acquired. It turns out that it's the wrong thing.

So, here I am, back not quite to the start trying to work out what the part that I need in fact is. How do I work out if I need the HSX120 or something else?

Thanks in advance!

I've changed to Di2 on my road bike so removed the BB cable guide. Now have two holes in the BB where the screws for the guide went - do I need to to find something to blank these? Removed screws are too long without the cable guide. Not worried about rust as the bike is stainless & the BB has a sheath thing to protect it. My thought it basically I've got two new drain holes now, though someone please tell me if this is a bad idea.

Why not just put the guide back on?

Fancy cutouts on the bottom of BB shells used to be a thing, don't see why it'd be problematic.

@Pifko Miniscule weight savings & enjoying taking the cleaner look without necessary bits for cable (admittedly in the least visible part of the bike tbh).

@withered_preacher Ah that is true, on rustable bikes no less. Will see how I get on this winter as BB bearings can still rust & reassess.

https://www.accu.co.uk/barrel-plugs/506561-HBP-5-1-11-6-2-LDPE-BL

or similar in the correct dimensions

but yes, a hole to let the water out is better than plugging it and letting it get in elsewhere

You could just tape over it when you ride then take the tape off when you store the bike

I could Google this, but there’s some excellent knowledge here and I know I’ll get the right answer.

What type of BB is this on my brother’s Aeroad with an ill-fated Ultegra chainset?

I am going to fit something non-Shimano for him at Christmas.

Thanks!

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I'm a bit confused, I have a frame that needs an integrated headset, so no cups. It's for a 1 1/8" straight fork.
I measure 41mm internally. If I look at headsets I see most of them are 42mm...
Are there 2 different sizes? Seems weird with such a small difference.
Thanks!!!

I googled it for you;
https://www.canyon.com/en-ae/support-articles/bottom-bracket-measurements.html

Very kind, thanks!

Is PF86 a Shimano nomenclature? And does that mean the shell will take a BB86 pressfit? I’m looking at Praxis.

At a glance, only Shimano cranks are coming up as compatible with PF86.

If I look at headsets I see most of them are 42mm...Are there 2 different sizes?

Yes, 41.0mm and 41.8mm, which is sometimes called 42. Mostly, the 41.0mm ones are 36°/45° and the 41.8mm ones are 45°/45°

At a glance, only Shimano cranks are coming up as compatible with PF86

In theory, FSA cranks with a 24mm axle would work too, and maybe SRAM GXP with a reducer in the NDS bearing.

PF86 is BB86 with plastic shims between the bearing outer race and the bore in the shell, to make life easier for manufacturers who can't be arsed to hold common tolerances. The same cranks fit either.

Thanks!

Fitted some Conti 26” MTB tubes from wiggle on my bike w Vittoria booze lights (2.3in or so wide). When I inflate them properly there seems to be a bulge in the tube around the valve area which causes the tyres to rub on fhe guards. Only time this has happened it’s when I was a teen being cheap trying to jam a too big tube in. Any idea what might be going on? Have checked and the tubes were sold as being able to take up to 2.5” tyres.

There's a thicker bit of rubber around the valve, before you inflate the tube more than enough to hold it's shape a little when installing, push the valve up into the tyre, it should pop this bit from being stuck under the bead and get rid of the bulge that can become a boom if you inflate it fully.

Strange! Thanks for confirming!

Small chunk missing from BB threads. My homemade chaser tool goes through ok (and was amazingly effective at removing gunk!) but an actual bottom bracket resists and I’m scared of applying any real force. Pay someone to run a proper tap through it?

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Wouldn’t think the missing bits would be too much of an issue but zoom in - it looks like some of those thread ridges are flattened and squished into the valleys. Which will be an issue.
So yes a tap would be worthwhile.

Anyone had a carbon saddle successfully repaired, and if so, by whom?
I've been given an AX Lightness one, that unfortunately got overloaded and then subsequently DIY repaired but not particularly well.

CBR have said no, they won't. And I'd like to try and fix it instead of chucking £400 of carbon in the bin.

Try target composites, no idea if they'll say yes but they've fixed lots of carbon for me and always done impeccable work and are really nice people.