Home DIY

Resawing is not a fun job. What are the board widths? Anything from about 300mm and you're likely SOOL.

you'd also need one face planed again on each board which would reduce the thickness by approx 3mm. I could do it but I'm in the NW (of England)

Boards are only about 200mm wide so shouldn't need a huge bandsaw. They're actually shelves so not critical that they're perfectly flat, I think a bit of hand planing after will get them good enough. Peckham Reclamation is right down the street so yeah prob a good first point of call, thanks.

today I am physically wracked with full body pain after a very long and unrelenting painting and decorating schedule for the past couple of weeks. I think I may have inadvertently triggered the family-line arthritis in my first and second knuckles of my left hand so that's fun and standing up straight is a bit of an issue thanks to cutting in eschers hallway yesterday.

so yeah shortly after that I was consigned to bed and now I have full blown flu symptoms. wont get the coving done before the carpets to gonna have to do it all next week instead of assembling first bits of furniture as planned.

hoping i can stand up without feeling dizzy and immediately losing my balance by tomorrow so I can at least get the cables run under the floorboards so i'm not pulling the freshly laid carpet back up again straight away.

I know it must've been answered loads before but I've forgotten the forum favourite, least worst value bathroom supplier?

Tap does come off....

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Wasn't prepared for this

looks like a clean, a couple of new o-rings and you're good to go.

EC1 Bathrooms is @chrisbmx116 approved, who I believe co-chairs the LFGSS bathroom steering committee

This is exactly where I got to. Some many many pages back someone had similar-ish issues. You'd think new rubber o rings and silicone grease would be a way forward - but possibly in a different system to yours the generic service kits (with parts I didn't have a clue about) have differing dimensions of ceramic parts (that also wear out)

Finally got all the concrete rendering off the kitchen fireplace using a hammer & chisel for some, and an SDS chisel for the stubborn bits. It’s going to need some more cleanup and repair, (and paint stripping) but getting the messy job over with meant I could replaster the thin wall on the right and I can now install some wooden panelling over the tiles on the left. Phew.

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O rings and a flat plastic washer are easy and cheap to source, the other bit looks more unusual. But will replace what I can, grease it up real good and see.

Such a nice room, the tiles behind the fire are :chefkiss:

I can see Sophie Grigsons Meat Course so the books as well as the fireplace gets my vote :)

Good luck. I've been bedridden with something along those lines since Sunday morning. Dizzy, nauseous and throat feeling like I'm gargling broken glass

Anyone have any tips for drain noise.

We have a downpipe that take rainwater/sink/shower water into the sewer - it terminates into something like this:

https://www.jdpipes.co.uk/aws/images/blog/underground-sewer/drainage-gullies/ptrap-gully.jpg

It gets super noisy with water splashing into the hopper - is there an easy thing to put on the bottom of the downpipe to reduce noise?

Thanks. They've been covered up since the 60s. Not sure what's behind them but as there are a fair few needing replacement I guess I'll find out at some point.

Reinstating some reclaimed floorboards on this lovely Friday. Some spectacularly bodged bits of carpentry which are a treat to discover. A lot of the old nails won’t come up… is the best option to grind them off?

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Or bang them all the way through the board down in to the joist with a punch if you can, then the board will lift off and there'll be a small hole left. Assuming they are old flooring nails, not modern ones with a big round head

EDIT - zoomed in to the photos a bit more, I'd just bang them in flat

I would also get some treatment for woodworm on those joists to be safe just incase any of it is active.

The splashing noise is usually because the water's falling through air for part of its journey, rather than flowing along a surface, and then impacting on the standing water in the trap at the bottom. The aim would be to make it flow down a surface. Could you rig up something like a rain chain but inside the downpipe?

Yes indeed! Is it worth putting on the sides and underneath of boards too or just stick to the joists?

They are a real mix of old nails, newer nails, screws and even no nails.

I’m moving around a lot of the boards to better stagger how they are because at the moment there are a lot of ugly clear runs of cuts and joins.

Will re-nail down the boards. Where there are any old nail holes that go un-used is the best thing to just mix up some sawdust and pva and fill with that?

I would put it on the undersides yes - just as a precaution. I just tend to use up the full bottle/can of the stuff and slap it everywhere. You can either use a brush or a pump spray if you have one. I opted for brush in the hope the treatment was less airborne than the spray.

On the filling holes, I have had mixed results with PVA/sawdust. I'm not sure if its the water content in some PVA but the colour match has been poor, give it a try but you might find the better quality results is a good filler that once sanded is an approx match.