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Thanks so much, that's what I expected/feared. The handrails on the wall side can be unscrewed but the central piece is going to have to be done in situ, so I guess stripping will make most sense then and be less fiddly? With appropriate ventilation...
Gumbé-
Just buy a new one in the colour you want. Stripping that in situ will take forever and probably poison you. it doesn't look integral to the stairs unlike traditional balustrades, so it might be easier than usual to remove it and swap it out.
Alternately, take it all off and get it dipped then refinish it outside.
Howard
Sanding is a must. Priming not necessary but would be better.
If you're after a really good finish, you might want to think about stripping the existing paint or doing lots of sanding.