-
• #4552
Cheers. Makes sense.
I wondered if cables were hard to splice or lights didn't have the ability to unplug the cable.
I'd have thought cable would be quite cheap and easy to swap about. Although I wouldn't know because the only time I've done it was going from a hub to a old school fork leg mounted light. So for that I just used some tape on the inside and wrapped the excess under the light I think.
-
• #4553
Son use a coax cable with special connectors that are quite a pain in the ass to splice and isn't particularly cheap.
-
• #4554
2mm banana plugs are OK for semi-permanent connections and certainly more cost-effective than the son coax connectors. Coiling up the extra cable around racks and fork legs saves doing any measuring and makes it a bit more flexible if you want to change or remove racks I guess.
-
• #4555
Same experience as c.h.e., still works after 2 years in every weather.
-
• #4556
cool! just received mine, cant wait to have it shine.
-
• #4557
I'm looking at getting dynamo light up and running. One of the challenges is there's no front hole on the fork crown so I'm considering following options
- Attaching to mudguards using Isen attachment
- Going for an upside down light configuration and attaching below a Quadlock mount I'm currently running (runs like a Garmin mount with option of light/GoPro below)
- Attaching to handlebars
Favouring first two options given limited space on my bars and impression I get is it's better to not have your lights too high but interested in other people's thoughts?
- Attaching to mudguards using Isen attachment
-
• #4558
I'm using the exposure stem faceplate mount to hold a Revo upside down. still hoping they'll eventually release a fork crown mount though as the beam pattern on that isn't ideal for road use
-
• #4559
I tried (and failed) to make my own mount which used the hole on the back of the fork. Its a rack mount bent crudely into shape, fits well but wasn't stiff enough so the light shakes as you ride.
Now using a off the shelf handlebar mount but definitely prefer the fork crown mounted position if you can
1 Attachment
-
• #4560
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-universal-handlebar-mounting-bracket/
Anyone have one of these? Would half of it be sufficient for a light or do you need both halves?
I want a handlebar light mount - currently I've got this one which is perfect aside from the fact you have to unwrap the bars if you want to remove it. I don't have dynamo lights on the bike all the time
-
• #4561
A hack/bodge I have for an exposure is using a B&M mount (super solid, think it may have been a v brake light mount) and then the cleat section from the faceplate along with a nut slightly filed to fit between the prongs and it gives a very solid angle adjustable fork mounted light mount. Might be useful!
1 Attachment
-
• #4562
Like that a lot, and I think I have one of those brackets knocking about. Thanks!
-
• #4563
Busch&Muller do also have a single arm handlebar mount.
https://www.bumm.de/en/products/mehr/produkt/470lha35pb.html?
-
• #4564
Does anyone have any tips or examples of how to set the angle for stvzo lamps? I'm forever angling it up and down, and can never seem to find a happy medium between not being able to see the path going downhill and blinding oncoming drivers?
-
• #4565
Any nice examples of external dynamo cabling out there, that aren't tape or zip ties? Metal work is an option, bike will be going in for mudguard mounts anyway.
-
• #4566
Di2 cable guides are the normal go-to.
-
• #4567
Further alternatives:
- headset spacer with light mount (easy to find and quite neat)
more creative:
- adapter on canteliver mount.
- installing front rack with light holder on back hole
- lowrider with light mount
- headset spacer with light mount (easy to find and quite neat)
-
• #4568
Don't pay for an Isen mount as you won't receive it. They've ceased trading.
Mudguard is a good place but it's usually best to add an additional stay to limit vibration. -
• #4569
Is there any reason I shouldn't use something like these JST-sh connectors for joining dynamo wires? I have dynamo lights on several bikes and intermittently need to switch them round or move rear lights to different places on bikes. I'm too cheap to go for those nice magnetic connectors and have previously used banana plugs, but I'm terrible at soldering and the idea of something prewired I can just splice in and heatshrink is appealing.
1 Attachment
-
• #4570
It will work, I have a different style JST connector on my rear light.
-
• #4571
Thanks - that style looks neater too - SYP I think? Will buy a bunch of those.
-
• #4572
Measure height of light, when you're five meters from a wall the beam should end at the same height. That's what I do.
-
• #4573
Sorry if this was asked before I tried to search for it wasn't quite sure how to phrase it.
I am thinking about a neat way to do the wiring for my rear light. It's a retro MTB frame that I am now running one by. So there are cable stops for the front derailleur on the down tube. I am trying to figure out if I can use them. How does everybody else wire their rear light neatly but externally? -
• #4574
This is exactly the kind of practical thing I was after. Thanks very much.
-
• #4575
You're welcome. It can be a bit challenging having full beam with a dynamo light and being 5 meters from a wall.
Now if everyone adjusted their lamps, life would be better...
Tape up the inside of the fork with some colour complimentary cable ties as extra security. Or hot glue gun.
Three neat bands of heat shrink on the rack stays.
Or post on here asking for suggestions and a link to some sort of neat 3m backed cable holder thingy someone must make given the high cost of all for these hubs and lights.