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  • I'm also shocked by seeing posts recommending it for wood burners

    The good news about this is that the poisons mostly fuck the person doing the burning

  • ^ Yeah - I was thinking similar.

    @stevo_com Cheers. I've got a wickes round the corner, so that's why I was looking there. I do also have a TP, but haven't been there yet, but should probably check if they've got something wider - but they're usually more expensive.

    You have prompted me to go and have another look, and redo my numbers. Cutting to the short edge (current setup) is shit - I'd have to trim two boards down to ~10cm width, plus the extra cutting and more wastage.

    However, I've realised I can put an expansion gap next to the house side as the boards are supported at either end. Then that brings me down to 8mm, which is in the 5-8mm range Google tells me is correct. All this assumes they're 14cm wide and not 14cm wide before they cut them or rounded up to the nearest inch, or some such standard building measuring bollocks.


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  • was drifting off to sleep last night when a little voice popped into my head for a chat...

    "you did put the jointing tape on before you filled the tapered joins in the dining and living rooms last week, didn't you. the ceilings are all nicely filled now so that would be a pretty shit thing to have forgotten to do."

    "yeah of course i did, I'm not an idiot"

    cue long sleepless night worrying about it

    today looking at ceiling... "I'm a fucking idiot".

    now hoping my desperation approach of sanding a groove in the plaster with a handheld sanding block just deep enought to let me seat the fibreglass tape, then a layer of plaster to fill in the squares of the tape and flatten it followed by a final layer to cover it will give me half as good a finish as I had before and do at least something to stop it cracking if it does shift about a bit

    and I was so pleased about how well it went. ffs.

  • .

  • We have had some stuff made for us out of MDF. The guy doing it messed organising his usual painters so he has found us another one. The original painters were going to do it by hand, new painters are going to spray. Is there anything to be concerned about with it being sprayed?

  • Have some deep holes to fill where a previous bannister was fitted - whats my easiest/best option? Build up layers of Toupret?

  • On or off-site? Spraying will achieve a much more uniform finish and look more ‘factory’ finished. This may or may not be the type of finish you’re looking for. Lots of people like the look of (properly) brushed paint.
    Over spray is the biggest consideration if on-site. It gets everywhere

  • Seeing their previous work, spraying isn't something that can be picked up without training,, but I'd be 100% sure the carpenter won't risk anyone's work they can't trust. I'm assuming it'll be done on site (your house)

  • Thanks.

    Its on site. The carpenter wouldn't normally risk it normally but as he messed up his usual painters can't fit us in until Feb so he is under pressure to resolve so could take a chance. We have asked for the name of the firm.

  • How would I repair this corner (which has a kind of round corner, followed by an indent). It's pretty shitty all the way up but the bottom has obvs been chipped away.
    Scrape it all back all the way up, just push off the loose stuff around the obvious damage? Then use some kind of square corner bead? What kind of filler? Doesn't have to be perfect but we're fitting a wardrobe in it in the coming weeks so would like to do any tidying prior to avoid any damage to the wardrobe once it's installed.


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  • Toupret fine filler sands really easily so you could over fill and sand back in the shape with folded sand paper. It will still be fragile, however.

  • Thanks - any thoughts on how to make it less fragile? I suppose once the wardrobe is in place it's unlikely to be knocked (I think the damage came from having a small table against it that got rammed a few times by a toddler).

  • Plastered corners usually have a metal bead in them for this reason. You could try something more malleable or the toupret filler with the fibres in it. But that would have to be shaped on application, you can't sand them as they go rubbery.

  • If the wardrobe ends up flush or proud of that corner then you're not going to be walking or moving stuff past it so it would be more protected anyway.

  • you can't sand them as they go rubbery.

    Idk if I had different fibres, but I was able to sand mine back and then stick any misc ones down with more filler.

    However, in fairness this is for an outdoor concrete porch lintel. Idk how well it would present up close inside.

  • You could fill the bead in to give more support and a flatter finish?

  • For anyone who has lost their will to live Sharpening all their chisels and planes, Rutlands are selling off their imitation tormek whetstone sharpeners in old packaging for £160 reduced from £250

    Mine just arrived and works fine. The case is plastic so might crack/won't rust, has a bidirectional variable speed motor and comes with a flat blade guide for chisels and plane blades

    Rutlands whetstone sharpener

  • Was thinking this and will probably end up that route. Just wasn't sure if we'd miss the rounded detail given other features in the room. Probably not is the answer.

  • You in my house?
    Just did the same. Exactly how @stevo_com suggested.

  • why the hell I think that corner is timber idk

  • Just bought some countersinks from them, will likely buy this so could have combined postage.

  • Postage is only £6 so not bad in the scheme of things
    They also have a biscuit joiner and a few other tools but this whetstone is definitely a tool I've wanted a while.

  • Tiles. Where from? Don't want to spend golf club money but want fairly decent I guess. It's for a few sections of wall in a kitchen. Green but beyond that no brief.

    What should I be looking to spend psqm?

  • Mandarin stone are nice

  • Thanks - yep, some nice ones there.

    In other news.. our kitchen floor was originally half wobbly and sloped concrete, and half pine boards. I poured some stuff over the concrete and got it 90% good, then put ply down over the boards. This was well over a year ago. There's still a bump in the centre of the concrete and I'd like to move on with my life and put some decorative floor down (corka clicky stuff: https://www.colourflooring.co.uk/collections/cork-flooring/products/bacana-charcoal-corka)

    Options:

    1. live with the bump (unlikely)
    2. get someone in to screed the entire room for me (what's a total bill likely to be for a roughly 5x3 room?)
    3. do it myself (probably won't do a good enough job)
    4. other? (which is?)
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Home DIY

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