Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

120mm is a bit narrow for an 80's frame

120mm was still quite common even on nice bikes in the early 80s

What I am wondering is whether the part of a 120mm track hub where the fixed gear cog threads on is the same as a 120mm hub intended to be used with a 5-speed freewheel

Get a track hub designated as 'flip-flop' of 'fixed/free', they have a freewheel thread on one side which is the correct length to take a multiple freewheel. You will have to move the hub sideways to get a multiple freewheel to clear the driveside dropout. How you do that depends on which hub you buy.

Alternatively, Bitex have partially filled the hole left by the apparent demise of the SunXCD hubs with a 120mm cassette hub RAR8
https://bitexhubs.co.uk/product/rar8-120mm-road-hub-rear/

28H only, and super dished to squeeze an 11s rotor into 120mm, but you do avoid the long bearing overhang and corresponding axle breakage inherent in a multiple-freewheel design

Is there any reason why a sram apex long cage rear mech (11-42 ) would have an issue with a x1 50 tooth chainset ?

It’ll be paired with 11-36 cassettes.

Well if you're in east/ south east London and have small/medium hands you're welcome to borrow the lobsters for a bit to see if they make any difference.

Afternoon all, rear wheel question here
Have a set of early ‘60’s Record hubs, the rear of which has two locknuts on the NDS
The outer, larger, is c.8mm wide, but is there a narrower alternative?
Am trying to gain (loose) about 4mm from the overall OLD to fit this 120mm wheel into a 116mm gap (1953 bike)
With the larger nut removed it fits perfectly but am wondering if left like so it’ll kill me?
The axle is hollow so am using the original QR as well (hopefully)

It's only 2mm each side, just prise the frame open a bit

Yes, did and boinged it in - but it’s really tight
Was wondering if there might be slightly less knuckle-skimming b̶o̶d̶g̶e̶ work-around

Cold set the frame wider

wondering if left like so it’ll kill me?

You're still left with a lock nut up against the cone? It will be fine on that side of the dropout, but beware of the QR bottoming out on the axle which might now be poking outside the dropout face. You can dial in the exact OLN with spacers/washers/shims between the cone and locknut.

Was thinking about that, have done it before but wanted to see if there was a better mechanical solution before using brute force :)

Ah, took a picture (always a good idea)
Bit dark, but from the left, inwards…
The qr lever, a serrated washer (2mm), the first lock nut (8mm, which I’ve just threaded onto the right of the dropout so I don’t loose the blimming thing), dropout, thin steel washer, inner locknut
The on the DS, the mech hanger

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Pressed dropouts and thin stays usually point to a fairly flexible frame. As mentioned you should be able to spring the frame 2mm each side with your thumbs as you put the wheel in (correctly assembled)

Sorted thanks all
Sourced a lock nut :)

Could be that one of these (or thereabouts) might be the fix I need;

Nuovo Tipo 4mm thick locknut #1283

I don’t suppose anyone has one in the spares box?

Have a disagreement on how to proceed, would like the hive minds opinion please.

Ordered DT Swiss track hubs for a customer. Unpacked them and there’s a noticeable (haptic) click in the front hub. I’ve spun it a bit by hand to loosen grease and seal, but still there, feels like a bearing that’s been overtightened.

What would you do?

It’s probably a bit of dirt in the bearing. Either send it back or swap the bearing out if it’s no trouble.

On closer inspection there’s paint or dirt around the inside of the spoke holes, and a scratch. Also the box didn’t have branded security tape, just a vertical piece of tape going over the serial code on the box.

Came straight from Uk distributor. Used? Nuts, bolts, and threads are flawless. It’s scratched and the customer doesn’t want it in any case. ☹️

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Looks like it's been built up, if not used.

Anyone want to bet on what Madison will say?

They’ll accept the return I imagine

Is there an answer?

Got the boss to liaise, waiting for a reply. 🤞

I’ve run into a snag with my stupid MGOOF project and while I’ve already had some good advice on it a bit more won’t hurt. The problem is that the dropout slots on my niceish chrome forks are something less than 0.5mm shy of 9mm and therefore these hubs (early 2000s Chorus) don’t really fit. What’s the best course of action? Just ram it in? New hub with a threaded section as opposed to solid? File something?

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I am not sure, I had something similar but because I had not much love for either the dropouts and the wheel I just forced it lightly and gradually and went ok, as far wont deform where will sit I guess is fine but wait for other responses. (I said nothing)

(maybe that is due to the extra mm addded due to the chrome process?)

something less than 0.5mm shy of 9mm

Just sloppy manufacturing, file the dropouts and thank the lord you aren't dealing with British Lightweights and their 5/16" front axles. It was probably fine with threaded axles as 9mm male threads are less than 9mm major diameter

any bike shops in london with yokozuna's compressionless housing available to install, please?