• Has anyone done the Port d'Envalira and continued down to Andorra lately? I did it twice ages ago. I really liked the road up from Ax les Thermes, but the contrast with Andorra was shocking. Really dirty and trafficky with boy racers everywhere. It's like someone has transplanted Southend to the Pyrenees. Is the rest of Andorra like that?

    I drank from a mountain stream near the top on the French side but just over the Andorra border. The taste was indescribable. After the next hairpin there was a filling station with a pile of refuse, including a dead sheep, thrown right on the stream. That night I threw up both lungs and my liver.

  • Touring disasters can make for the best memories. There's a theory that you should court chaos by never looking at a map.

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