Home DIY

Could either bolt through or screw into the solid battens behind it. I'm confident that a fixing like a coach bolt properly attached would mean that effectively the whole window frame/sill/under-sill cabinet would need to come loose in order for the ladder to fall (and that's bigger than the window!), but what I'm not sure about is what type of bracket/climbing anchor etcto fix to the wood with a coach bolt, if you catch my drift!

In climbing centres what do they use at the top of a top rope route? I'd assume something like that would be best.

https://m.petzl.com/INT/en/Professional/Anchors/COEUR-BOLT-STEEL

If your rope hangs out the window make sure that whatever part of it is touching the window and under pressure is sheathed and protected so it can't be cut.

Outward opening casement.

Here's the window, and there's the 10 month old, plotting how he and his brother might escape.

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Thanks, thought these would do it! I'm probably being a bit dim but is that bolt pictured there replaceable with one that's suitable for wood?

https://www.asec.co.uk/asec-1591-asec-concealed-locking-window-restrictor-kit.html

I'd try these before going with the face fixed cables.

Yep the bolt is separate. I’ve bought anchors from TradeInn before, they have lots of different options. https://www.tradeinn.com/trekkinn/en/climbing-equipment-wall-equipment/14523/s
At a climbing wall they’ll generally have two bolts connected with a chain and a fixed carabiner. That way if either of the two bolts fails, you are still attached to the wall without falling very far or shock loading the remaining bolt.

Painted. Not to hang the rad.

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I would use thunder bolts but many may disagree.

Has anyone painted a garden brick wall / fence, pretty colour or even a mural? Thinking ours could benefit from a facelift, unsure how well external decorating will age though.

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As bricks go they're already pretty funky

edit,- just a thought how about doing the mural on something else (flat) and mounting it to the wall with spacers

As above, the main problem with painting bricks is they're really hard to unpaint. If it looks shit, you're kinda committed.

Looks superb

Would they work on side-opening windows? I imagine they could if you mounted them on the bottom of the window frame, but all the pictures are of windows that open from the top.

IMO your brick wall looks lovely as it is. Could you just give it a clean with a pressure washer/other safe cleaning product?

Growing plants that bees love, maybe some climbers like honeysuckle etc could add more interest to it...

I'd probably mount some trellis and grow clematis up it.

Would they work on side-opening windows? I imagine they could if you mounted them on the bottom of the window frame, but all the pictures are of windows that open from the top.

Yes, just mount them on the bottom edge. However that depends if there's enough space left on the end of the hinges.

Cheers folks, will pause the painting idea for now I reckon.

I thought these seemed good value when I ordered them in a hurry.

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I've got those in a few sizes. They are very useful.

Well as least they'll fit in my camera tool pouch when I'm done - not entirely sure what for mind you.

In my defense they were illustrated by a photograph of a man using two hands to hold clearly a different, bigger, set.

The 125 part of the serial number is the length of the handle. (This is the kind of thing Knipex geeks know!)

I'm adding two sockets in a room. The whole room will be reskimmed.

Right now I'm chasing in a channel to run the cables in conduit.

How deep does the conduit need to be?

Currently it is maybe 1mm below the existing surface. No idea how to photograph this but here is a pic.

Any quick answers appreciated as I only have a small window of time left for the messy work before everyone gets home.

(the reason for running them through conduit was general Internet research showed this as the best belt and braces approach)

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Should be fine as long as the conduit is well packed with plaster so it can't move

Cheers.

For maximum strength I'd want around 5mm of plaster above that.

I expect most plasterers would skim over it anyway without any short-term issues, but if the plaster is only ~2mm thick it'll be prone to cracking there.