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  • Ha! I love it, silver crankset I feel is a must. Yours looks in pretty good nick too given their age now.

    Mine actually started out as this 2006(I think?) 56cm frame that I bought on impulse for £100 on Facebook, the original plan was to build it up as a fun ratty winter bike with mudguards. But it had a load of issues, it had two tiny cracks at the seat collar cut out, the og fork was a potential death trap that was subject to a recall and the seat post was borderline too short since I’m 1.89m and should have been on a 58. A new longer seatpost was going to be £100 alone…
    So I sacked it all off then found this 58 on eBay with none of the issues above.

    Does your frame have the brass insert in the seat tube? I’m well read up on the seat post issues but I’m hoping this one should be good for a while at least…

    Has the seat post been slipping on yours much?

  • I got the matching ultegra r8000 crankset on sale but kind of tempted to keep the big silver 6600!

    Interesting, sounds like a remarkably similar situation to me, I also bought one of the same colourway ^^ which I never ending up collecting as I realised the listing had completed three or four times and it also had the undisclosed cracked seat tube. I knew that was a common problem but didn't find out about the death trap forks till afterwards, hence the Look forks - soon to be some straight Dedas though those 3T ones look best.

    Managed a good deal on mine from a nice guy in his 60s who used it as a race day TT bike (not seen much use) said he bought it for nearly 2k second hand in 2007!! Its the anodised version so no paint as such and barely a mark on it.

    Came with the very stiff reversible setback aluminium seat post and the brass shim but still slipped on the first ride - that leads everyone to overtorque, hence the cracking. Forked out on aftermarket seatpost, thinking the flex would maybe reduce the leverage on the potential crack area (also comfier) but the tolerance is even worse so have fitted a deodorant can shim going around the entire post with the join at the back; a slightly regrettable choice . Ive been using Fenwicks carbon paste but the substrate seems very sub-par compaired with the park-tool stuff I've used in the past. Hopefully can sort this out and get riding it properly.

    *its a 56 and yeah ebay jobbie hylix seatpost
    ** was also after some 47 corimas haha

  • thinking the flex would maybe reduce the leverage on the potential crack area (also comfier) but the tolerance is even worse

    Ah shit! This is my main worry, I’m a fairly big heavy rider but I’m hoping carbon paste and a torque wrench will keep it crack free…
    I haven’t actually rode this 58 yet though. The seat post looks virtually brand new, the brass shim is there and it looks very clean and new. It’s actually really hard to move the seat post up and down so that sort of makes me hopeful.
    I bought this 58 of an older guy who said he’d used it for 2 or 3 tt races. The previous owner apparently bought it in 2010 and then hung it on a wall as piece of art in some sort of man cave! I was dubious of the claims until I seen it, it really does look like it’s been rode twice.

    I’m thinking about removing the anodising on my r7000 cranks and polishing them. But I’m not sure about dipping hollowtech cranks in caustic soda. I think this gen of hollowtech are two halves bonded together?

    I hadn’t realised those black frames are anodised! It still looks really fresh.

  • was also after some 47 corimas haha

    I sort of lost the plot and bought a red axs group and corimas on the forum for this build.
    But I realised how mental it was to be spending that sort of money on a fun bike that won’t be my primary road bike and sold it all again a few days back.

    The Corimas really did look the business though, the carbon weave was a near perfect match to the seat post. I really want deep section carbonz but I also want to be able to slow down when required.

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