Hiking, Scrambling, Mountaineering, and Climbing

I've got a Petzl something or other (Bindi maybe), Mrs EB has a Black Diamond Spot 350, which I think is brilliant (I borrow it occasionally) it's not the lightest but it's comfortable and multi positions possible. I have not noticed it auto fading?

Takes three AAA batteries which I prefer (my Petzl is USB)

+1 for Petzl. I use the TIKKA for everything, and you can also bag their USB-chargable battery pack that sits in the same slot as AAA batts. Lasts for AAAAAGES, then if it runs out while you're out, you can just stick batteries in it.

I have not noticed it auto fading?

Can't remember the model, but it seemed to work on high for about 25 mins and then go down to medium. Could be knackered, I suppose. Or could have been user error - probably more likely.

Will look into the Petzl and Black Diamond offerings. Ta.

I have an exposure one. Blows your budget but it's phenomenal. And will last a lifetime, like all exposure products. Get what you pay for.

Ah gotcha. Yeah there are LEDs that will work on max Lumen output for a while before dropping down a level.

I hear you. Got a Diablo when CRC heavily discounted them last yr and have their smallest lights too (Tracer?) from a similar forum tip-off. Great things. I did think about mounting the Diablo to a headband, but it's a bit hefty for that (and will probably not work for running, as it's a tap-function one)?

Ah, user error (or expectations error) then.

No won't work. I have a diablo, but then also their headtorch. But yeah cheaper options widely available.

Yeah. Bodging it was appealing (side of the head, like one of those helmet bullet cams), but then I had second thoughts...

Petzl Tikka

Some slightly off-topic advice needed please.

I'm installing a fire escape ladder in my gable end bathroom. It's effectively a rope ladder that has two loops for carabiners and it will attach to the inside of a wooden cupboard that's been reinforced for the purpose of supporting it. I'm thinking to attach the carabiners to slings that will go through some kind of ground anchor fixing. But I don't know what to look for/what spec to aim for for that fixing. Does anyone have any tips?

From looking at the listings for escape ladders it appears that people use a mix of climbing anchors like Petzl Coeur bolts (if in concrete/stone) and random steel plate fixings (if in wood) but I wouldn't mind over-speccing this to be sure it's safe.

The Petzl bolts would be bomber, plate fixings in wood should be fine with some proper screws.

I'm not sure if I understand the setup completely, but I think I would be more worried about the slings and or the rope on the ladder deteriorating due to weather and UV

I assume it's some rope latter that is kept inside somehwere safe and deployed when needed.

Yep @skinny's right, the ladder will be rolled up in a cupboard under the sill so we can just chuck it out the window if needed.

Unless you are putting the bolts all the way through suspect something with screws would be better as to my understanding the bolts work through expansion, glue and the torquing action of the bolt hanger.and I don't think the best mechanism for wood. When bolts used in indoor climbing walls they are screwed into a (m10?) T-nut installed through the board. Would agree that this is not likely to be the weak point of the system as long as reasonable screws are used.

If the box is under the sill and the slings will be running over the frame then the anchors will see very little load. I would suspect that they only get about 50% of the load, so one 80kg person climbing down a ladder will only put about 400N of force on the anchor, shared between the two. Overbuild it for sure, no point skimping on a safety feature, but just to put your mind at ease that whatever you do will be plenty strong enough, you've clearly thought about it. I would possibly suggest that having a simpler, non fixed mechanism, like a brace which pulls on either side of the window attached to the ends of the ladder might be better for something which will hopefully never be used? Something like this, which I'm sure someone must make a specific thing for window ladders:

Cool thanks all. Going to go for Coeur anchors with M12 coach screws into the battens behind/under the cabinet. Tbh I'd expect that the ply itself would hold the screw sufficiently but going into solid wood behind will give that peace of mind.

You can get versions of the ladders with built-in hooks like @chiroshi suggests but because it's a tenement the sill is too deep for them to be suitable.

Does it need to be anchored as there are several with hooks that fit over the sill ? I’ve got a ships ladder that I bought years ago to improve my climbing ( it didn’t !) and that has a single eye for fixing. The single point means that it swings about rather which is probably more excitement than you’d want in an evacuation. What are you fixing into at the top? If it’s brick any expansion bolt should do it and if wood you can put M10 bolt in as per climbing walls/ new routes. Pics of the set up would help as I’m struggling a bit with visualising the arrangement

Spotted at Mile End climbing wall

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I picked up a nos, unlabelled, Topo Designs pack yesterday, £50.

Google led me to it being one of their old Subalpine range packs.

The brand seems fashion first but this stood out from the other packs on display and has lots of potential to be quite useful.

The bottom straps hold my thermarest z -mat and the zippered back compartment will hold a mucky tyvek ground sheet separately if needed which is useful. The side bottle pockets are huge with straps to secure poles etc.

I will see if I can rig a bodged bungee line or something on the outer attachment points instead of the mini-bag for more stash space.

The zipper flap is odd but I can see the intention. A drybag liner will be essential but would do that on any pack tbh.

If it works out OK it'd be a steal compared to the cost of an Atom which I had my eye on as upgrade.

It might well be a buy cheap buy twice case study though...

Does anyone have any experience of salewa boots?

All the Salewa kit I have is top notch. If they fit and work for you, I'd say you'll get a good product by my experience.

How’s the fit? I’ve got super narrow and shallow feet?

No idea, not got shoes from them just equipment and clothing.

Mrs EB has some. She loves them. They have a removable volume adjuster for the footbed.