• If you compare it with an actual tubeless rim, it doesn't look good🙂


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  • Doesn't look thaaaaaat far off though? Riiiiiight?

    If you can tell I'm not familiar with tubeless ect. So in short, it's a no?

  • Doesn't look thaaaaaat far off though?

    The so-called "tubeless ready" DT R24s on my road bike don't look that far off, but they're absolutely shit when used with a tubeless tyre.

    The UST certified rims used with UST certified tyres on my MTB have been trouble free for nearly 20 years.

  • So they might be but if they are theyle be shite

    @gbj_tester

  • theyle be shite

    To be fair, the general thrust of this thread is that pretty much any road tubeless set will be shite 🙂

    The specific issue with dodgy bead seat profiles is that the beads will drop into the well when you lose pressure, either through a puncture or natural wastage. The former is dangerous (although not necessarily any worse than the same rim and tyre with a tube in it), the latter is just annoying because you'll have spent an hour getting the bloody things to pop up onto the shelf in the first place, and now you're back to square one.

  • Big sad. Was looking forward to the mess

  • Doesn't look thaaaaaat far off though?

    Rim bed profile doesn't look that different from an A719🙂


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  • Aren't they exclusively clincher also? I'm not familiar with my rimming it seems

  • Aren't they exclusively clincher also?

    Yeah, that was my point.

  • Gotchaaaaa so I should definitely get dental insurance

  • so I should definitely get dental insurance

    Or some inner tubes

  • What’s the fix for a burping tyre?

    29x2.6” Spesh Purgatory on a WTB i35 rim. Tape is 2 wraps of Tessa 4289.

    I think I have just had the pressure a bit low but that’s the whole point innit?

    Couple more wraps of tape?

  • you could raise pressure or try tyre inserts

  • I recently got a puncture which tubeless sealed enough for me to get home on, however now if I pump up my tyres above 40psi, the puncture opens up again and lets air out till tyre is at about 20psi.
    What can I do to fix this? Riding around on 30psi feels like not enough air but perhaps I'm too used to 23c tires pumped up to 100psi?
    If helpful this problem is on a 36c panaracers

  • Patch the inside of the tyre.

  • I won the tubeless lottery, double puncture, 2 plugs in each hole didn't seal, 6km walk home.
    The sealant was still liquid enough to leak out but didn't seal shit.
    Nobody ever mentioned how those tubeless tyres wrinkle up on the rim making pushing the bike a pain.


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  • Carry plugs in your bar ends and do the little valve cap trick at a garage forecourt to use their airline . Sometimes just xxx hsppens.

  • Had a puncture during PBP, didn't look too big but sealant just keep bubbling out. Stopped, put a plug in but don't think I did it quite right (didn't stick the dynaplug ALL the way in) so was left with a pretty long tail which I trimmed a bit. A little while later it was oozing again so I stopped and chuckled a second plug in. No bother after that. Even with my shit tekkers it was pretty easy and ideal when exhausted and your hands are a bit numb and weak af.

    Schwalbe Pro One 34mm at 57psi with Peaty's Holeshot sealant.

  • i cant believe you are talking about bikes again this soon

  • oops, the rim has a leak too.


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  • 'FS: Fairlight Strael 3.0, 56T. Lightly used, meticulously looked after'

  • Thought I’d share my milky disaster experience from the storms on Saturday. I had a puncture, running 25mm GP5Ks tubeless in LB rims (I know, I'm wild) that come up to about 27mm in real life.

    In short, there was a large milky high pressure fountain which was extremely unpleasant. Although the contis did seal at about 30 psi, enough to ride home and stick a plug in, the valve was too guncked up for my mini pump to squeeze any more air in.

    All in all, it worked with 25mm tyres, but I’m not sure if it was any better than just flatting and changing a tube. I did not enjoy essentially waxing my calves in the shower through having to peel off two large pancakes of sealant from the backs of my legs after. Would not recommend.

    Does anyone have any hot tips about stopping valves from clogging?


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  • It may defeat one of the supposed benefits, but if you carry a tube you can take the tyre off and wack the tube in.

    Anybody got issues of the sealant going in to detailers and gunking them up?

  • I’ve found the Reserve fillmore valves do not clog up, they have an entirely different design to the standard presta and looks more like a poppet valve. Added bonus is they get rid of the traditional brass valve core (replaced with a bespoke stainless valve) which increases airflow significantly making them easier to mount and add sealant, without having to remove and replace the core.

    Been running them for a year on one bike and every time I pump up the tyres it just works, no blockages and never had to unclog them. I have since the run them on two other bikes same result. Super happy with these.

  • they have an entirely different design to the standard presta and looks more like a poppet valve

    Surely they have entirely the same design as the presta valve, which is a type of poppet valve🙂 The difference is that by placing the valve seat inside the rim, the Fillmore valve has a larger head and seat, and more radial clearance between the valve stem and the housing


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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

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