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I can't see how fabricating an electric sauna is a difficult thing. Just a 220v electric item in a wooden room. No water. Nothing dangerous. Sure, a real fire one is a bit different.
skinny-
This is what i thought - the only potential complication is cable sizing to your location - depending on the size of your heater
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I stayed in a place in Romania on a trip we no longer talk about which had a sauna in the garage which looked like 2 kebab shop heaters plugged into a shed with a car stereo on the outside.
It wasn't horrific and no one died.
Same cant be said about the trip (although no one did fully die, just a bit inside). -
I can't see how fabricating an electric sauna is a difficult thing.
You underestimate, I suspect. Or perhaps overestimate the ability of the folks who would put themselves forward to build such things at prices consumers would accept.
A friend bought a house with a sauna. And a hot tub and pool. Shortly after they moved in I was round for a pool party and the sauna stopped working. Borrowed a screwdriver and had a look to find the heater (20-30A) was controlled with a normal light switch (6A maybe?). The wrong wood had been used and when it heated up it started to drip sap. Hot tub turned out to be full of something nasty and had to be condemned. Pool itself was okay although the flue from the boiler was leaking, fortunately in a drafty shed.
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Just a 220v electric item in a wooden room. No water.
Slow reply but this isn't really true - saunas have high humidity, moisture in the environment and sweaty people which all effectively equal water, but most electric sauna heaters also have fake coals you add water to so that you can up the humidity (which makes it feel a lot more sauna like). Combined with lack of clothing the risk of electric shock increases significantly.
You don't have to comply with BS7671/part P of the UK building regs and I don't know what the Spanish rules are, but the inside of a sauna electrically speaking is a special location under the regs. Around the heater itself is zone 1, then the rest can be zone 2 (up to a metre high) or 3 (above a metre). This means controls need to be on the outside, everything needs to be IPX4 rated and good up to 125 degrees C, internal wiring should be minimal, etc. If the heater element can't be sealed it also normally shouldn't go on an RCD due to the potential for earth leakage.
IANAElectrician but it seems to me given all this DIY would be doable but would require a lot of thought and research to understand the safety and thermal principles.
terlg
chrisbmx116
Howard
Fox
That and the materials and know-how to build one without killing the occupants / creating an unholy mess, and meeting the regs aren't readily available at a price folks are willing to pay.