Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Monolithic disc? Yeah, they all do that. As the periphery heats up and expands, the lowest energy state becomes a pringle if the energy required to form that bend is lower than the energy required to elongate the spoke elements of the disc. Might be a sign that it would be a good idea to switch to a floating rotor.

Thanks, that makes sense.
PBP coming up and it's not for big descents so I'll worry about it after that!

Replaced the master cylinder piston in my Rival HRD levers this morning, because just greasing them didn't help. I noticed that the piston return spring included in the service kit seemed quite a bit longer than the old one I took out, did SRAM update them? I can't imagine the old spring had got compressed enough to shorten the length. Maybe it did, the lever didn't like returning properly...

I have a leaky force HRD lever that I got on here to try to fix/use as a dummy on a fixed gear build but didn't get round to it. Anyone want it?

I'm getting a clicking noise from my flat mount front Ultegra caliper today and not sure how that's come about.

It's only while braking, silent otherwise. And the harder the braking the louder the clicking becomes. Gonna have a better look tomorrow but a cursory glance the pads appear to be touching the rotor at the same time so the rotor doesn't seem to be warping.

Perhaps the calipers not centered, or off at a slight angle, or dirts got in and obstructing things? It's all just a few hundred km old.

Pull the pads and check they're wearing evenly. You might find the issue is obvious once you've had a look (contamination or realised the spring was in pish or something). Inspect the rotor front and back too to make sure there's nothing wrong with that. Then put it back together and maybe redo the alignment (undo both bolts on caliper and retighten while braking hard).

Do you still have this? All I'm after is a reach/adjust pushrod.

Yup

So I just bought the cheap Shimano mt200 for my fixieskidda.
What's the ghetto way of shortening the hoses and tryyyy not to have to rebleed?
I have for some reason mineral oil and one of these Shimano pots to attach to lever bleed point, chuck with some oil and pump brake until bubbles disappear.
Anything else to consider? Good how tos on the interwebz?

The only time you are likely to lose fluid is when you cut the hose. Hold it vertical and use a hose cutter is the best option. But as long as you don't go swinging it round your head like a cowboy, then the method you have described should work fine.

Just replaced the pads on some Spyre C's with some lifeline jobs and the bottom of the pad is overlapping the inside edge of the main contact portion of the disc by a few mm. Can i safely shim the caliper to raise the height or should i look for different pads? Or is this a non issue? I can hear the disc arms scuffing the pads if i spin the wheel slowly.

Like so

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How often does everyone replace rotors and pads for their commuters? Trying to get a rough idea of what's normal

Pads - whenever they're worn or stop working well irrespective of bike use
Rotors - As above

Need sone help replacing pads for a set of SRAM Guide callipers on a bike that’s new to me.
Online there seems to be a number of models of these brakes (RE, Ultimate, etc). Can anyone tell me what those pictured are?

Also, who’s the go to for third party pads?

Cheers

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Galfer or Uberbike: https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/category/331/SRAM-Avid-Disc-Brake-Pads

Cheers.

Uberbike say "Note - Despite sharing the Guide name, the RE and G2 RE disc brake pads are not compatible with SRAM Guide R, RS, RSC and Ultimate brake calipers."

Any idea whether I'm running RE or R, RS etc?

The calipers you have aren't the RE variant.

The caliper is the same across the Guide rsc, rs and ultimate - its just the lever that changes.

Guide RE and G2 RE use a different slightly larger shaped caliper.

Thanks, much appreciated

If you don't mind waiting a bit, get some from the ebayers eBay:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrHuuZ8

I haven't noticed any performance difference from branded pads

EDIT: not sure they're the right ones actually, but that seller sells almost everything

Try that:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPpN14I

Cheers. I need replacements quickly so have ordered from Uber for now, but will save that for next time.

Yeah but really roughly Kms wise? I'm kinda new to having a disc brake on my commuter but feel like they're needing replacement way more frequently than I did on my rim brake commuter but a quick Google shows a few articles saying they reckon disc pads should last longer

It probably makes sense to move to a harder wearing compound, if you haven't already?

Most brakes come with what is termed organic compounds, which offer good braking but wear quickly. Moving to a sintered or semi-metallic compound offers slightly inferior - although you'd be hard pressed to notice - braking, but are harder wearing so last longer.

It's not inferior, just different. Sintered pads tend to have less initial bite but more overall power and with better once warmed up, so with the better wear are more suited to mountain biking than commuting or general road use.