Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Hi guys,
I’m about to overhaul (try to overhaul, I should say) my DA 7600 rear hub.. I bet it’s a 10min job for some, for me - my first time. Got cone spanners, new steel bearings, phill grease ready to rock&roll.. but one problem - how should I get dust caps out without damaging them?

Ok the continuation from this https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/236214/?offset=4500#comment17024027

Took the crown race off and it is a bearing crown race. The bit on the forks doesn't look that great. I removed the head race using two blunt razor blades so made sure to do no damage. Is there a limit to the number of shims under the crown race? Ended up buying https://www.planetx.co.uk/products/selcof-integrated-cartridge-bearing-headset-for-straight-1-1-8th-fork-steerer? to replace the bearings and all the bits.

Also removing the brake caliper was difficult and the central bolt had to be unscrewed by taking the caliper apart and seemed like that the bolt had corroded in to place.

Here's one, no idea if the shop is reliable though.
https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=65245

Any problem running a 10s GRX crankset with 11s chain? Teefs are the same widths aren't they?

Teefs are the same widths aren't they?

Yes

once the axle is removed, you can lever the dustcaps out using a flat screwdriver. be careful and they should come off relatively easy and without damage.

I was looking into bearing puller, but not sure what size it should be.. anyway, I guess screwdriver will do. Thank you, for your reply.

Took calipers off to swap them around and odly enough rear (working one) had some issues...I guess its disasembly time again.

1 Attachment

https://www.bike24.com/p2706809.html vs. https://www.bike24.com/p2706823.html

I have no need for 73mm shell compatibility but the MTB BB is a bit cheaper. Is there any reason to get road over MTB BB for GRX cranks? I presume they use the same seals and bearings etc?

GRX cranks have an axle the right width for road BBs if you tried to use the MTB one you would either have a too wide BB with the spacers installed or too squished tube between the cups if you don't use the spacers, you can use the MTB cups with no spacers and a road width tube in place of the MTB one.

I think the 68/73mm tube has a slip joint in it. The fsa ones definitely do.

It'll squish it if you try to fit it in a 68mm shell without the spacers, but there's a little bit of leeway as it's not supporting anything just keeping it clean, they're not like the FSA ones though.

So, best to go for the road ones and save any bullshit it seems. I presume the sealing is pretty similar anyway - they're both low-end.

Yeah, they're basically the same.

Can the bearings be replaced with some decent 2rs ones?

Not worth the effort and tools really. When the Shimano is worn go for a better BB if you want better bearings.

and a road width tube in place of the MTB one.

Or just patch the tube. It doesn't have any function relating to the loading of the bearings (like a tube spacer in a bmx bottom bracket would), it only serves to keep crud off the axle and from entering the bearings from the inside. If you are happy that your frame is fairly clean internally then there's really no need for it.

Can you explain BMX bottom brackets , are they just like square taper ones but with a removable axle? Im messing around with one tonight

Square taper was only a thing in bmx pretty early on. Much more common is a splined interface with or without pinch bolts. (48 spline without, 8 or thereabouts spline with). Their are other systems, Primo cranks use a non tapered square axle with pinch bolts and Odyssey have a hexagonal/octagonal axle with a complex wedge thing.

Bearing wise though, they are generally a press fit with the bearings either going into cups first then into the frame (USA) or straight into the frame (Spanish or Mid). Mid uses the same bearing as USA without the cup, Spanish is a different bearing.

They have a tube spacer between the bearings which the inner race of the bearing suits against, like the shoulders on a hub axle. Without the tube you could over do the preload. I think it has to be a tube (as opposed to shoulders on the spindle like a hub axle) so you can press the bearings into the frame without having the spindle in the way.

If you are happy that your frame is fairly clean internally then there's really no need for it.

Yeah, I did a few without during the great parts shortage.

I need a cheap and cheerful 1 1/8 headset. There’s nothing wrong with this if you ignore the plastic top cap (and it being on Amazon) is there?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ritchey-Unisex-Adult-Standard-Headset/dp/B0027BHVXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dd=7gONzR9HKR5uZ-wvI8i5UQ%2C%2C&keywords=1+1%2F8+headset&qid=1692269285&refinements=p_36%3A-2700%2Cp_72%3A184323031%2Cp_90%3A22415809031%2Cp_85%3A20930949031&rnid=20930948031&rps=1&s=cycling&sr=1-1

How about a silver one?

Honestly I don't really care about the colour. Just buttery smooth turning potential

I've got a silver one that was on my first homemade frame that was entirely not straight and only got ridden a few hundred km. It was cheap to begin with but looks kinda like a Chris king without the logo.
You can have it if you want it. The frames going to the tip next week with or without the headset

Ah that's very kind! Only snag is I need it before the weekend (hence why I was looking at amazon in the first place). If that changes I'll message you and make a forum/charity donation. Cheers!