Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Haha, didn't have to watch the video to know. Remember seeing my first lefty in about 2001 by the side of a trail in a remote location, guys was so confused about how to remove wheel, had the disc rotor off, pads out, fecking mess. Was like, dude, take a step back and look again at the problem.

Tubed (cheap tube from nearest supermarket, might be quite thick) tire wouldn't sit flush near nipple. What am I doing wrong? Any advice on seating tubed tires better?

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Deflate mostly, loosen the valve nut right off and push the valve up until it kinda pops. It's impressive this is the first time you've encountered the issue, it's basically habit for me to do this everytime.

Unscrew the valve nut a bit and push the valve in a touch before inflating

Judging by the smell and consistency I think its literally vegetable oil

There's your trouble. If you want a high quality lubricant for precision machinery from a biological source, you need to go back to whales

It seems to play especially badly with the bright finish on campy chains and cassettes. I quickly gave up and switched to RocknRoll

and @psg1ben, thanks. I don't know why how I avoided that my whole life, but you live and learn.

It seems to play especially badly with the bright finish on campy chains and cassettes. I quickly gave up and switched to RocknRoll

I don't know why I started using it over Squirt - I'm local to their head office so going to pack up the 2 ruined chains and along with the bottle of remaining shit lube and see what customer services say.

Campag 10 speed double to Campag triple conversion, advice please.

I want to change one of my Campag 10 speed bikes to a triple, but not decided on which bike yet. The bikes I've got currently have the silver 10 speed Chorus or Centaur shifters, from what I can gather both of these can be used in a triple set up, is that right?

So apart from buying a new crankset I'm trying to figure out what else I need, I guess its just a new bottom bracket and a new front derailleur.

My existing BB for my doubles are 102mm wide which is clearly not going to be wide enough, I've got a barely used Campag BB that's 113mm in my parts bin , will that work with a triple? If not which one do I need?

Onto the FD, the groupsets I have are all silver so to keep matchy I don't want any carbon or black FD versions, so don't want any of the modern 11 speed ones. I need a braze on not clamp. Will any of the Campag FD's marked as triples work? I've seen a Victory one ebay but Victory predates 10 speed, but for front shifting that will be OK won't it, or not?

I've also seen a Campag Olympus triple FD, which is for MTB use, any reason this won't work with a road 53/40/30 triple? Is a 53t big ring maybe too big to fit in a MTB FD, or the spacing between rings in road and MTB different?

The other one I've seen that is specifically for 10 speed and silver (and more expensive) was called a Campag Comp Triple, so is this the 'correct' one I should be getting?

And anything else I should know that I've not considered let me know, thanks.

I guess its just a new bottom bracket and a new front derailleur.

You'll almost certainly need the long cage rear dérailleur, either a whole one or find the cage plates as spares and do the surgery, I think in most cases with Campag that's the only difference between the race and tour variants.

Hello,
Aluslip for the aluminium to aluminium, or if I didnt have that marine grease maybe? But that is what I have around.

As for the carbon post a quick wipe with isopropol alcohol, I get rubbing alcohol from places like paks and that is good enough IMO.

Snapped a chainring bolt while tightening and cracked the head of another. Am is superhuman or is this just the result of 7 years/50,000km of fatigue?

I torqued the heads off some 1980s aluminium Stronglight chainring bolts. It didn't require much torque. Steel chainring bolts from now on!

Any suggestions to get this Mavic
651 610 BB out?
I have removed both lockrings. using pointy thingy to turn the indents only gives acces to the bearings but the body stays in the BB.
Hammer time?
Or are the lockrings strong enough to pull it out by continuing to tighten only one side?
Have been watching contemporenious (sic) YouTube videos and they don't cover deinstallation, only installation where it just sliiiides in.

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So have you fully unscrewed the cups? They should come off completely and the bearings+axle should then have room to slide out. If stuck then I'd encourage forgivingly with a rubber mallet or a wood block.

Occasionally a screw securing the cable guide can act as a grub screw on the BB.

How can I unscrew the cups? The pinholes open up the cup but don't unscrew anything and there is nothing to hold onto to unscrew besides a rag and spanner but you understand my hesitation regarding damaging threads

Good shout, will try now

Sorry when I first googled your BB it showed me a cup and cone BB, but that was my error.

If it were me I would start tentatively gripping the threads with improvised soft jaws and seeing what parts I could get to rotate and move.

No sorries, I had my nrs mixed up and couldve been more forthcoming with info and pictures on which one can actually see something.

@LWaB
The grub screw thing wasn't it unfortunately.
I am trying to rescue it from a taco'd frame so no qualms about taking a drill to it but still no movement.

I will try the route of using the lockring and keep pushing, maybe it'll break the I suspect rust bond. The frame didn't have a vent hole in the BB so it could be rusted into place..

Ugh. Got a click on my MTB when putting any power down. Seems to be slightly louder on LH pedal, so I've replaced the pedal bearing and cleaned and regreased threads. It's still there. There's no play in the cranks, preload is correct. BB bearings are brand new, and BB is tight as fuck. Nipped up the crank to axle interface bolt thing (Hope AM crank) and it admittedly wasn't tight enough, but click is still there. Doesn't seem to do it if I stand on just the crank arm, however, so I'm still thinking it must be the pedal somehow. Will swap out the pedals tomorrow to rule that out, but anything else I'm missing? Chain is basically new, cassette is torqued up, axles are greased and tight.

Fucking bikes.

Hardtail or full Sus?

Full sus. And I replaced every pivot bearing a couple of weeks ago.

Was gonna suggest: Go over the pivot bolts again and check torque?

anything else I'm missing?...Doesn't seem to do it if I stand on just the crank arm

Sometimes it's the rail terminus