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Is no one going to mention the paint reaction above the rear drop out or am I seeing something that isn't there.
I did mention it:
How come they are putting on a second coat without having dealt with that old paint that's still on the stay near the fork end?Thinking about this two more points come to mind:
Perhaps the original finish was powder coating. My experience is that it's difficult (near impossible) to blast this off because it softens with the heat of the blasting - chemical stripping is the best answer. Is it possible some dimwit has persevered for hours with blasting, not realising this was not a good way to show they were a diligent worker?
Although the firm may be expert, you should be aware that blasting is not a nice job to do, and is often done by employees at the bottom end of the food chain. Also, even good workers can have bad days and make mistakes - I lost one good customer because some one who was usually reliable had a one day nervous breakdown, messed a job up,then wrapped it up herself and sent it hoping to cover her mistake.If you decide the frame is a write off and you can retrieve it, you could cut it up and inspect the inside of the tubing - if it isn't rusty you would have a pretty good case against the finishers.
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clubman
Have you tried soda blasting? Have soda blasted bits of car metal/engine bits and motorbike bits, never had an issue with thin metal/ally.
Have you seen the dry ice Cleaning/blasting videos on youtube? Part of me fancies trying that on some bike frames.
Is no one going to mention the paint reaction above the rear drop out or am I seeing something that isn't there.
EDIT: Is there a small hole in the seat tube below the solder/braze/welded joint or am I seeing something that isn't there.