Home DIY

Kinda 1.5.

I’d give it one more. Not all walls are created equally.

I’m not a painting expert btw, far from it. That’s what surprised me - Dulux has seemed to help me look like I know what I’m doing!

Is the colour Valspar? I hate Valspar. 5 coats of a dark blue over white in my last place and it was still patchy.

Ha, yeah, going to keep going until it’s solid, however many coats.
The white is dulux and the yellow Valspar which has kinda burst my bubble.

I thought I was on to a winner with Valspar, that sounds awful though!
Original plan was Dulux trade but my locals don’t mix it.

Everyone has their own experiences of paint, we just did our whole interior with Valspar which felt like a godsend after starting cheap with B&Qs Good Home brand which was so thin you almost couldn't see the coats going on.

Anyone here a window hardware expert? I've got a french door where the bottom latching mechanism has broken. It seems to be G-U hardware but I can't find a name or code for this piece. There's a code on the vertical piece but it doesn't seem to include the bottom bit.

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I think @user69121 is who you want.

Yeah to be fair the bedroom was a one bang with valspar but that was a pale pink.

Speaking of paint. I want to get the hall back to a base white before repainting. It's currently a shitty green with marks and scuffs and patches of trial colours. What's the best Matt white to cover all that shit in as few goes as possible. Before I go for my stock Leyland trade?

Have a look at the decorators forum reviews as that’s from people using stuff every day, I use a few paints that I wouldn’t have known about without looking there.
Found Tikkurila Anti reflex 2 from there which is an excellent ceiling paint to hide unevenness, does take 2 coats though.

Have a look at the decorators forum

I could, but that would mean admitting I have nothing left in life. Not too worried about one coat and done. Just something that folks have found covers better than others. The Leyland trade does the best of what I have tried, just curious if there is anything even better.

white is a funny beast, there's nothing that's a massive guaranteed advantage , I put that down to the pigment being titanium dioxide sounds expensive (as crazy as it sounds one thing the bridging coat will do is make the wall less thirsty= less paint used on the top/colour coats) I wouldn't worry about opacity. The tikkurila mentioned above is excellent in situation of dual natural lighting/ particularly awful ceiling surfaces, it somehow works on the texture it gives thus if used as a mist on filler it will horrendously flash the texture through especially if using a finish specific paint (f&b)

The Leyland Trade is not a bad option. You want a high solids paint. They are normally more expensive and very matt. I've used supermatt in the past but I do a lot of covering similar light tones these days and I use another very matt finish for ceilings.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dulux-trade-matt-white-emulsion-paint-5ltr/48384?tc=DB3&ds_rl=1243321&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjw8ZKmBhArEiwAspcJ7ght-gdFnmZar01zxKG5hylm5EOQ6PCEfAxUZrca-bqzGnehKJbhXBoCxV0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The last ceiling I did was Leyland Trade, white on white and I thought it covered well in pretty much perfect conditions. A nice paint to work with even in summer heat.

I always wash walls & ceilings with sugar soap as I think that helps to remove greasy/waxy areas that don't like paint.

It's worth using Zinsser Gardz although that does mean longer drying times on the areas that have been treated. It deals with flashing really well.

Yeah, I really want that product to also be suitable for exterior

I've avoided exteriors so far this summer. I don't miss them.

What's this oily/resiny looking stain on an interior door and how can I prepare the door for painting? My wife wants some colour drenchery (entire room inc woodwork/door etc).

Photo shows both sides of the door with whatever it is seeping through. Been exactly like that since we moved in, so nothing's changing particularly. But I don't want to spend 8 months building up layers to conceal it.

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I hope you're going for a rustic look, if not you are going to have a lot of preparation in any case.

My first thing would be to put the infrared heater on it and see if it boiled out like sap.

Something like Knotting or Shellac or Zinnser BIN are good at this kind of thing. Just don't apply it and then sand through it when you're prepping.

Thanks. Would a new door be worth it? Semi serious. Hate our current doors.. but if they would still require a lot of prep then prob (k)not.

I can only say that I have bare doors at home that are in similar condition and I didn't fancy the work it would take to fix the flaws.

They might look better painted even if they need nail heads filled and have gaps in all the joints.

Not sure on a new door, they are not as difficult as exterior doors, depends on the state of the liners. How square and true are they?

A piece of our toilet has fallen out. It's located under the rim, and guides the water along it.
It's a two piece, and the inner piece is still in..
I can feel the pointy bits that should attach to the holey bits, but can't for my life get it to stay put.
Any idea what this is called?
Any idea how to properly reattach it?
It's to solve a relational dispute, my partner is of the opinion it necessitates extra toilet cleaning and ain't nobody got time for either extra toilet cleaning or discussing if that is really the case or not.

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That belongs in the bin.

Any opinions on B&Q stuff for kitchens? We have some shit cupboards and want to replace the whole unit with a triple drawer setup instead

https://www.diy.com/departments/goodhome-soto-soft-close-drawer-box-w-600mm/3663602479161_BQ.prd

Kinda like this I guess

Yeah trade is the one, 2 coats for good coverage. I get F&F discount so it's all I use.