Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

The sealant will slowly evaporate even if you don't have a puncture as no tyre is totally impermeable to air. If you end up with a solid tyre before wearing out the tyre then you really need to ride the bike more. No point having a tubeless setup in wall art.

What is the point of art if not to show us the transience of life?

If you have a bike on 'the bench' for a considerable amount of time, just top up before you next ride it. You don't have go round dutifully topping them all up on a schedule.

ok, good to know, the bike gets used quite a bit right now so probably doesn't need anything

The problem with thinking you’ve got enough goo in your tyres because you haven’t had a flat and haven’t seen any leaks in an age is that when you get a bit of stick go into the tyre what little bit of goo you have got just sprays out and doesn’t do anything. This results in having to frantically pump up the tyre, ride for 1/2 mile, stop frantically pump up the tyre, ride for 1/2 mile, stop and repeat until you get home after 5 miles of this. When you arrive home you can happily slosh in some more goo and bingo the tyre stays up. And so was my Sunday ride. My little tube of top up was on the other bike!!!

So I should maybe shake the wheels a bit to see if something is still sloshing around?
I just set up a new set of wheels and it's pretty subtle.

My default move is to just add sealant, because who's got time for testing?

Shaking might hint at sealant levels but usually not unless they're big tyres with a lot of sealant. If I really wanted to know I'd pull the tyre off and eyeball it, but I'm more likely to pull the valve out and stick something in to act like a dipstick to check fluid level in the tyre.

I have a very thin zip tie i've kept hold of for precisely this purpose, actually gives a decent indication of whether the sealant is still sealant, rather than separated out eggwhite grossness

I don't think I will mess with a seated tubeless tyre if I can avoid it, maybe I add something in a few weeks.

I thought I am being clever and got Fillmore valves, can't remove the cores on those.

Smart move.

Or do you just keep topping up till you have a solid tyre?

The internal volume of a 700×25C tyre is about one litre. The dry residue of sealant is about a tenth of the initial volume. Topping up quarterly is about a tenth of a litre per year. The Fermi approximation of the time to fill a tyre with solid sealant residue is therefore 100 years.

maybe I add something in a few weeks.

I'd suggest months rather than weeks. It's worth leaving a little space for some air.

I know, my first 3 month are up so I will add a bit more time.

"After a bunch of miles with the GP 4 Seasons I set them up tubeless, fitting René Hearse Steilacooms with one layer of tape, while Hutchinson Sector 28s needed two layers to seal up nicely – the rule of thumb being, if you can easily slip the tyre on the rim uninflated, add another layer. Once up, they held air fine. They aren't branded as 'tubeless-ready', so if you do go this route, as for any tubeless setup, be sure to perform the 2 x over-max-pressure test to ensure there's no chance of the bead popping off (inflate to twice what you ride, and leave overnight). Best do this without sealant, obvs, otherwise be prepared for a big cleanup job if they let go."

https://road.cc/content/review/mavic-aksium-wheelset-265208

Think I might try and tubeless up the CX bike. What could possibly go wrong? Apparently they're not tubeless ready Aksium wheels. I've got tonnes of tape and sealant and my DIY inflator...

2x max pressure?! 😂
Yeah I'll just go and pump up gp4ks to 200psi. I'm sure that won't go wrong

I'll just go and pump up gp4ks to 200psi. I'm sure that won't go wrong

It probably won't, the rated maximum is set well below the proof pressure. However, he said twice what you ride, not twice the rated maximum. Unless you're very heavy, you won't be riding GP4000 at anywhere near their rated maximum

Nah he also said

perform the 2 x over-max-pressure test

The pressure you ride at is neither a maximum nor a minimum, it's exact. But yes he did say the pressure you ride at, I was just being facetious

No, it's 2x what you would run them at, ie. if 30 psi, then pump to 60 psi

I thought the same thing when I read what he'd written. I wonder how many idiots ruined their tyres/wheels after skimming that article :)

Tweeks sales on stans stuff
Stans30 gets you the discount
Ie race sealant normally 32quid now 22.40
Plus i am throwing open the tyre cupboard . Tried to fit one today and they are not suitable so up for sale 70 quid posted for the pair

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Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H: Fine for a week of rocks bashing in the Alps, 3 punctures in 2 weeks of commuting. Has quality gone down since they moved production?

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I honestly don't know why I keep persisting with tubeless tyres on the road, as now I really think about it, I can't remember a single time sealant has actually sealed a puncture enough to hold more than about 15psi

In contrast, I diligently top up my MTB tyres with sealant but I've never punctured one in over 3yrs

an on top of that replacing a road inner tube is a 5 min job

How many years have I been posting "road tubeless is stupid" comments in here?

#hippyisalwaysright