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• #8552
No chance of that, having to ride through De Beauvoir.
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• #8553
Magura or Swissstop
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• #8554
Looking at Juin Tech F1/GT - it says ‘recommended’ with 160mm rotors. I have 140 on the back on my road wheelset - will they fit with a 140? Or do I need a new rotor
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• #8555
Should be fine, just get a new adaptor.
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• #8556
you can’t use 140 at the back with Juintech because of the way they mount, the rear fits directly with no adaptor and no space to adjust in the triangle. Certainly has been the case for mine anyway
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• #8557
Flat mount bolt length.
Is there a standard bolt length for front / fork flat mount. I can see various calculations/tables for the rear, but front is simpler right? -
• #8558
All flat mount for bolts are about the same lenght
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• #8559
Any recommendations for brakes for a kids bike? I've had no end of trouble with the 'radius' brakes that were stock. For a 6 yo so need to be pretty short reach, post mount.
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• #8560
Any Shimano should work, SLX and above have thumb adjusters instead of a 2.5mm Allen key.
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• #8561
Cross-top levers with disc brakes - are TRP hy/rds going to be the best option?
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• #8562
GRX have hydro cross top options, but otherwise I rate juintech over Hy/rds.
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• #8563
Interesting. I currently have TRP Hylex, might see if I can plug a GRX cross top into those, though by the looks of it they use slightly different hose diameters, so that'll probably be an issue.
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• #8564
I'm pretty sure we made some work with something they really shouldn't do, maybe campag, I hated the idea.
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• #8565
Actually I found a set in the workshop the other day so maybe we never went through with it, I reckon you'd be alright with hylex though, there's a bit of leeway with the plumbing. Can make sure we didn't try adapting anything and sell them on if you want to try?
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• #8566
Thanks, I've got access to trade and might get some new calipers too, so thinking Hylex levers into GRX cross tops then XT 4-pots. Only 1 dodgy connection then.
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• #8567
Sounds like fun. Check the piston sizes on the hylex first, I imagine they're the same as shimano so you shouldn't have a problem but worth confirming before ordering.
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• #8568
Bloody awful weather out there today. Went flying down a hill into a ford it’s normally about 50mm deep but today it was more like 300mm. My brakes worked just fine going in, but…
BASTARD!!
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• #8569
BASTARD!!
That's the least of your worries, have a good look at your hubs and BB if they were submerged, seals which work for years in rain and spray can leak like Kakhovka after 5 seconds under water
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• #8570
Yeah, looks like tomorrow morning will be spent taking stuff apart, cleaning it, regreasing and putting back together again. I don’t think the hubs were actually under water, but better safe than sorry.
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• #8571
If the brake was buggered by water, the hub would at least been partially if not fully submerged.
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• #8572
I was trying to be up beat 😂😂
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• #8573
Took the cranks out to check the bb, dry as a bone. Popped the seals on the hubs, a ok. Pads not so good, the spring had taken a lump out when it went and the buried itself into the surface. New pads and a clean of the disc and all is well again. Yay!
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• #8574
I'm pretty sure we made some work with something they really shouldn't do, maybe campag, I hated the idea.
GRX hydro cross tops schmushed with chorus shifters because it's a Rohloff hub and I had to pull the insides out off the shifters, I now know why I'd blocked most of the job from my memory. Brakes are still going strong a couple of years later though.
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• #8575
Out on the tandem on Sunday for a hilly ride in the Chilterns. On one steep descent, where I had to slow for a hairpin, then again for a right turn, I looked down and saw the front disc was well out of shape, like a pringle. It went back to flat as it cooled down over the next minute or so of normal riding.
First time I'd seen this, although I had heard strange noises after big descents before.
Is that normal?
Have I done any long term damage?
When that happens is it a sign to basically stop and let it cool before more descending?
Asleep at the wheel?