Home DIY

This is the sort of half-assing I can get on board with. So if I were to treat all cut ends with deck protect (including those ends of cut frame lengths that will be screwed together) and then give the finished deck a coat (on the rationale that the side facing the weather is going to do most of the heavy-lifting re water repelling) I might not be entirely negligent?

Given the effort of the job, personally I'd slap a load of something extra on all the joists and bits where water could linger.

I'd be less worried about the top. Plus you can probably knock the top out quite quickly with a spray gun or shaggy roller as some point down the line.

My previous deck I did nothing when I built it (pressure treated and nothing buried), and it was fine for the 5 years I lived there with a clean and a deck protect application once a year. No signs of it even starting to go bad in that time.

For the most recent one I went a bit overboard. All timber was bought pressure treated. Posts were soaked overnight in wood preserver and I used post-savers when concreting them in. I painted the tops liberally in wood preserver once I cut them to size. Frame was also liberally painted in wood preserver. Deck itself was painted in deck protect straight away and has just had it's first annual re-coat fairly recently.

If you need to focus on somewhere think about where water might sit or which areas are more exposed to the elements. Another thing that will shorten the lifespan is putting it together under strain. If some bits don't quite fit and you force them in place, those will be under stress constantly and will likely be where it fails.

Thank you for this, great point re the stress points. I think I'm going to proceed somewhere in the middle - will treat cut ends and other junctions, and give the deck a coat once it's up, but not going to stress it beyond that.

Appreciate everyone's input here.

I have an oak sleeper raised bed that I'm going to have to disassemble at some point, and I'm idly pondering how I go about that. Built with these, which my impact driver just about got in, odd one I had to finish with a ratchet. Zero chance it will unscrew them.

Which of the following would be best for dismantling?

1. Reciprocating saw down between the joins

2. Oscillating multitool plunged between the joins

3. Impact wrench and socket to unscrew them

4. Sledgehammer and try and snap the screws

From those options I would try 3, 1, 4, 2 in that order

Start with a ratchet then wind out the rest with the impact driver.

I’d treat the points of the frame that are either buried or unlikely to dry once damp. Probably overkill if the pressure treated timber was done right, but you can’t really be sure.

To be fair the deck surface benefits from cleaning and oiling every six months or so, just got to get lucky with the weather.

I've been waiting the whole of july for good enough weather to oil my decking. had some amount of rain every single day I've had time to do it.

I've been waiting the whole of july for good enough weather to oil my decking. had some amount of rain every single day I've had time to do it.

My experience too

Yeah I need to do a shed roof and its pissed down every day ive had free.

I’ve this area of paint peeling on my kitchen wall. I know why it’s happened (this is where the air fryer lives) I’m just not sure how to remedy it.

Is there a super heat/moisture resistant paint I could use?

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3 and if that doesn't work, a socket wrench and a big extension bar. Only go for the other options if you shear the heads

Eggshell is considered more suitable for moisture in kitchens.

Heat resistant paint is usually for painting barbeques, engines etc. Not seen domestic interior versions.

One option is glass cut to size with the back painted the wall colour and protected by mirror foil.

I have just spent the summer dismantling rotten old decking. It had lasted at least 7 years (since we moved into the house) plus however long the previous owner had installed it before then.

The treated timbers (including the actual deck boards) were mostly still fine. The untreated timbers were all completely rotten and falling apart.

Your deck boards will surely be already pressure treated and don't need anything more, apart from where you make any cuts

I recently used 'aquadecks' by owatrol on some seconds Cedar i picked up super cheap. it's water based and doesn't make stuff shiney.

it's worked really nicely for the past 18 months but was mega pricey

A piece of Alusplash, and some silicone in clear or colour matched.

Any asbestos experts in the house???

One of our neighbours is having some work done on their house. So this morning the trades man was sawing sheets of asbestos in half with an angle grinder to fit them in his van

Clearly the guy is a fucking moron. But has be done anything illegal?

sawing sheets of asbestos in half... has be done anything illegal?

Yes.

He's handled asbestos without consulting an expert or having a Safe System of Work (SSoW) in place. Or he's ignored the the expert and/or the SSoW.

Did you get his details? I would be contacting the HSE, to be honest.

This is the old thermostat, the house have a wireless one left here by previous owners. Can I just simply remove it? Are these connected to the power supplied? Under the stairs I have a switch for central heating, I assume if I turn his off I can then disconnect. Wrapped cables and hide inside wall?

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Bought some Dulux paint.
Regret.

were you having the room replastered? and by any miracle did the wall dry off at all?

Different room, somebody coming to quote on Tuesday. I'm up norf. The drywall has dried then it rain again and I can see outside it'll need repointing. Which I think it's better than my previous thought if been the bath leaking. I hope anyways, adulthood it's hard.

go on.. as in you've got to use it , or ..

I did that they referred me to local authority