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They've had this guy on the Cycling Podcast, it was interesting. He's quite right in that a lot of the Italian food 'traditions' actually started in the 50s or 60s.
I think 'gastronationalism' is a bit strong, but Italy is a very homogeneous society with a lot of set ways of doing things and much more shared culture than the UK. If you don't behave in these set ways you can expect someone to call it unitalian - normally someone older, if I'm honest.
The best Italian food is simple and puts the quality of the ingredients front and foremost, in my experience most of the best food these days is associated with the 'km0' (zero kilometre) or slow food movements.
Obviously @sohi you've not had any.
Marxist Italian academic says most purist rules about Italian cuisine - and the purported history of same - are bullshit. Also now exploited by racist politicians. He calls it "gastronationalism".