Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

run a hack saw through one side of the race?

It's not a race, it's a collet. Once you've accepted that, it becomes natural to accept that it should have exactly the same split in it that top one has 🙂

Just get a bit of plumbing drain pipe (can't remember if it is 32 or 40mm or pushfit or solvent weld pipe) to knock the race on. Take the crown race with you to a plumbers merchant

If you don't know what you are doing there are many videos on you tube.

To chaley you are right it was a stock photo of a crown race not the split crown race.
Asked about an alumium langster headset and showed photos and the guy behind the counter at condor went to speak to someone downstairs. Came back and guy mentioned they had shims and went to get the shims and got the headset I mentioned upthread. The sales guy brought the is2 headset for a tapered headset.

1 Attachment

Which 2023 edition cable and housing cutter tool? Any reason not to go standard Park Tool?

I've got a CN-10 Park Tool that I'm not sure has ever been out of the box. I presume it must've cut one cable otherwise why did I buy it? But I don't really have cable bikes these days and the only time hydro gets touched is on a new bike build which I normally have a shop do.

Have a jobsworth one from planet x as it was very cheap or free with cable outer and a CK cable cutter too, used for cutting power cables.

I usually cut with a small angle grinder, cuts on the cable outers seem straight and the plastic inner liner isn't crushed.

Any interest in selling it?

I'm having a spring clean so I could part with it. Make me an offer I can't refuse.

I have other old tools I'm not likely to use again like crank pullers and stuff like that. I was going to donate some to local bike shop charity joint but maybe some peeps on here could use them.

Ooh go on then as I need tools

I'll pm this eve

I have a deda expander plug (like this) I’ve just fitted on a carbon steerer. Having tightened the plug first, set the preload, tightened stem, and then tightened top cap again (as I would for star nut). So now when I take top cap off, rather than just unscrewing itself, it also unscrews the expander bolt which it is screwed into, separating the expander bung, and so also when I screw the top cap back in, it is inside the expander plug bolt and expands the plug, rather than just setting the preload alone, if that makes sense.

Is this just how it goes with expander plugs or am I missing something? Did I set the top cap bolt too tight after tightening stem? Do I just need to separate the top cap and expander bolts each time I remove fork?

Why would you tighten the top cap after you've set the preload and the stem bolts? I thought you did top cap, then stem, then you're done?

There's no harm in it. I sometimes do it. Dunno why. Maybe to line up the logos :)

Have you done the bung up to the correct torque and are you undoing the stem bolt(s) BEFORE undoing the top cap?

Stems can creep up the steerer. Tightening the top cap after the stem can possibly help holding the stem down while not putting more preload in the bearings.

Stems can creep up the steerer.

Maybe I should've been doing up the top cap more often on the Kinesis 4SD. It's headset would often loosen off until I installed a supersized knurled bung instead of their shitty one.

Is this just how it goes with expander plugs or am I missing something?

The rotation takes the path of least resistance, which all else being equal is the thread with the smaller helix angle. Loctite the expander thread and grease the preload thread.

Well I suppose the bung can creep too in which case tightening the top cap won't help but using your supersize plug would

Actually, yeah, it was probably the bung creeping upwards, not the stem, although that was the side effect. I've not had this with any other bikes - maybe the 4SD had a particularly shiny steerer internals or something.

Bunga Bunga!

Ah, this sounds like it will help, thanks

All helpful responses, thank you. Yep always thought it was helpful to do up the top cap a little more once stem right, just to stop it loosening if anything

Yes to both of these, though just thought the bung was done until it was snug/not slipping… Can’t remember seeing a torque rating but may be wrong - think it depends on the fork manufacturer from what I can see

Most important thing is the bung fully supports the stem + a few mm for good measure. That was stem is clamping fork steerer is clamping the bung. Otherwise you can get at the least cosmetic damage which can make stem and spacers hard to move out worst fork failure. There's a thead on it somewhere.

Stems can creep up the steerer.

Didn't know this, gonna give my top cap a snug up then!

Tester has done a good job explaining it on here in the past. Usually happens when the steerer is cut below the level of the top of the stem - which it would have to be to not bottom out the top cap during preload, the very top of the steerer can be squashed by the clamping of the stem which effectively makes the steerer slightly tapered. Over time the stem would want to walk up the taper.
Can be prevented by leaving the steerer longer, not below the top of the stem and having a spacer between the stem and top cap.
He also used to sell a top cap with an integrated spacer for that. I'm sure he still does.

I have some DT Swiss 240 centrelock hubs. Can I use any lock ring on these wheels or do I need to use a DT Swiss lock ring?