Home DIY

OHHHH didn't actually think of that... prob won't but an interesting idea. Prob going to edge it too so may trim it myself, may not, we shall see how impatient I get.

Yeah, this seems a chisel and fill job. Will look super clean when done assuming the walls don't fall apart when you make a channel.

I'm not messing with my freshly plastered walls! Also had that with other stuff and it took half the wall off when the furniture was removed.

Shirley you wouldn't be moving that desk... The desk belongs to the house now.

Very true, but I hope to retire asap so that will be a pipe smoking record listening den. AKA playing video games.

just get loft extended by 6mm

Use it on the wall behind you as a decorative item and order another batch minus 3mm each. Then your background on Twitch will look rad and pro.

And then when they send you -3mm but without the overcorrection you can use that set on the floor or ceiling.

Yeah I hope they don't collect when they deliver the new sheet, but fear they will.

you should buy the 7sqm of Olive Forbo Desktop that I bought and never used for the wall...
https://www.forbo.com/flooring/en-uk/commercial-products/marmoleum/furniture-linoleum/furniture-linoleum/bweo0r#4184

If could lay it on a floor I might consider it!

On that note, have I asked if anyone has glued down cork tiles before? Sounds pretty simple, but anything to watch out for?

Anyone more DIY minded be able to inform me of the security of the lock and hinges on my shed? There are two of the hinges (with the bolts shown). Would someone simply be able to remove the door from the hinges?

Any ideas for improving bike security in a wooden shed with windows? Door has an entry sensor and there’s a glass break sensor. But how best to lock bikes within for piece of mind? Current philosophy is they are locked to enough large stuff to be hard to move, and the alarm goes off instantly…

2 Attachments

Are they the colourflooring co ones? and are they tongue and groove/click into place?

Put them down in our bathroom, and didn't bother with glue after the mess i made with the rubber floor in the kitchen. Semi-held down by the weight of the loo/sink/bath panel, haven't ever noticed it move.

Nah, bricoflore or however it’s spelled glue down specific ones.

I'm planning to build a basic alcove wardrobe. My plan is to make a frame like the pic I've tried to attach. I was then thinking I'd clad it in ply and put doors up, ordering everything pre-cut.

I have two initial questions and would also really appreciate anyone pointing out the flaws in this plan that I've likely missed.

Skirting - to my mind the easier option seems fitting out a section (angle grinder/dremel?!) To allow the use of long straight pieces for the frame. But maybe this is a shit idea? Should i be trying to 'scribe' the ply to fit? I have neither the tools nor skill to attempt that. Could likely borrow the former but the latter feels a stretch.

Attaching frame to wall: 90% sure it's solid brick, planning to just use standard rawlplugs to a decent depth. Anything I'm not thinking about?

Cheers

1 Attachment

you need an oscillating multi tool to cut all of the things.

I guess it's absolute basic would be a hanging pole and various shelves n hooks etc hidden by a curtain ceiling to floor.. so could the (I'm assuming not yours) ever so slightly over engineered frame be replaced with a whole two part hinged door / in a if opened all is revealed way or a more simple yet poncy design.. if not fisher hammerfix are great to secure battening

Pragmasis do a lot of well-thought through security products. The shed shackle is worth considering. Their high security chain page is also very useful.

I'd be interested to know why that is? What I'd normally do is test before I turn the power off, turn the power off and test again to check it no longer beeps.

Loft floor raiser things. We need to raise the floor level to fit more insulation and want to put some shelves up there to store crap so would rather it didn't collapse, anyone got any suggestions?

I bought a kit from LoftZone and did it myself
https://www.loftzone.co.uk/
Straightforward but definitely a chore

I redid our whole attic myself, as duncs said its techianlly easy enough just cramped hard work, hot and itchy.

If you can, pay someone else. If not, I used these:
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Loftleg-Raised-Floor-Loft-Legs---175mm---Pack-of-12/p/100412

The insulation is expensive enough by itself, can't afford to pay someone else at the same time.

@Bezzin
Handle attachment screws should be on the inside if at all possible. 2* security handles protect the cylinder against cylinder snapping and will add some strength to the wood around the lock , so maybe worthwhile swapping... if your lock is PZ92 between cylinder and handle spindle.

It may be possible to lift the door off the hinges, or unscrew the bottom portion of the hinge from the shed, with an Allen key. Adding some type of "hinge security dog bolt" would limit this.

Replacing the glass with polycarbonate sheet glued in, or sticking on some security film on the existing glass would slow down a smashed glass break in.

Im using these, they're fine. I'm using the xl ones though as my attic has standing room so loads of height available.

The job has taken 6 months though as its both horrible to do (don't bother in this heat) and you discover hidden issues each time you remove a board/old insulation. Attic electrics redone and rotten joist replaced, now I just need to crack on..