-
• #52
Lovely thread,
would love my Confrérie 650 to allow 40+ tyres.
If you ever size down the 32 confrérie tyre is everything Grand Herse should be:
puncture proof, strong , light , supple.Allora means then, in Corsican.
-
• #53
Some mates cancelled on me today so I found a few hours to potter around the shed and mocked this up.
You can't turn the cranks sorta because the BB is held in by the tension bolts alone but I managed to pootle down the lane and back. It's so cool. Also please ignore the stem issues, I'm planning on making one, just waiting for some tubing to rock up.
1 Attachment
-
• #54
Very cool project. I would vote for just clear coat on top of it's current finish instead of lacquer ^
-
• #55
Little bit of progress today. Got the new cranks and BB from Spa, it's solved all my problems. Brazed on some mounts for the front rack, I'll size the chain and take it riding next week! So excited.
1 Attachment
-
• #56
I second this! Fantastic job so far.
-
• #57
Which BB worked for you in the end? And did you have to modify anything?
Great project, much tinkering.
-
• #58
I ended up with one of thses: https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m16b258s110p2620/YST-Threadless-Bottom-Bracket
Cant recomend higher for the purpose, its got a heavy chamfer on each end, and steel crush washers so it locates in the ruined threads a little. Been heaving on it for the last week, will see how it holds up long term.
-
• #59
Amazing that they do that bb.
-
• #60
Yeah, I've ordered one of these, I think from SJS, to install onto my CX bike when I next go to Poland.
-
• #61
Great job
-
• #62
Thanks for the kind words all!
The alt project is coming along nicely. Was going to attempt to remove the anodising from the bars Prolly style, so we will see how that goes. Upsettingly I think I'm going to need a way higher stem to meet the Jones setup, but we will see how we go.
If anyone has a straight 30.9 seatpost (condition irrespective just functional) I would love one till I can get a dropper.
1 Attachment
-
• #63
Thanks for the kind words all!
The alt project is coming along nicely. Was going to attempt to remove the anodising from the bars Prolly style, so we will see how that goes. Upsettingly I think I'm going to need a way higher stem to meet the Jones setup, but we will see how we go.
If anyone has a straight 30.9 seatpost (condition irrespective just functional) I would love one till I can get a dropper.
1 Attachment
-
• #64
Read through the thread and pictures - great, especially to put so much work into the frame and even with a background story of the bike!
The yellow of the Brother frame is lovely. They don’t make these handlebars like the Jones bars with a rise? I imported a Jones 2.5 bar a while ago from the US and A, now I see they’re available in Europe and cost 1/2 of the price I paid - still more than the On One I guess. -
• #65
I’ve this (layback not straight) Ritchey post that would match nicely - it doesn’t fit anything else I own!
1 Attachment
-
• #66
£130 is the cheapest I've seen to date. I'll have a go with the massive stem stack and on ones and if I like them I'll invest maybe
-
• #67
Pmed!
-
• #68
Found a little time to spend in the workshop last week, but sadly not enough. The mill was out of commission, so I managed to cut my miters on the drill press and it went really well. I was actually really impressed.
I only took 1 photo annoyingly. I had planned on making this adjustable thing, but I think I'll just leave it at 80mm and chuck a clam on there. It was easy enough to make quickly so I can just make more. To hide the quill bolt, I pressed and brazed in a lug into the bottom of the quill, so you tighten the bolt from under the fork. I thought it would look clean. I'll cap the top when I do the clamp.
2 Attachments
-
• #69
Also the bike packing side project is coming along nicely, I put the Geoff bars in but the spacer stack makes my eyes hurt, so managed to get some Jones risers of eBay for a tidy sum. The Esi Grips have defeated me. No amount of pulling and pushing with no about of hand sanny could get them to move any further. I'll have a go on Monday with compressed air to see if I fair any better.
1 Attachment
-
• #70
It may not help but there's also a BMXers trick of sticking 3 or 4 cable ties/zip ties inside the grip and sliding it on the bar with the plastic cable ties providing a bit less friction. Then you can pull them out one by one when it's on. I've had mixed results with this method but it does sometimes work
-
• #71
isopropyl alcohol also works for the grips
-
• #72
Stick 'em in a pint glass of hot water for a bit before insertion.
-
• #73
Always had success using window cleaning spray for grips. Spray a load inside the grips and on the bars then slide them on before it evaporates.
-
• #74
Very cool project. I would vote for just clear coat on top of it's current finish instead of lacquer
Second, maybe also hand paint some thin border lines (like pin-striping) around the edges of the original paint and the scorch marks to define them, adding a little more 'intention' and finish.
-
• #75
650 brazed jan heine low trail wanker mobile and an 29er atb, what more could a boy ask for. Brill thread
The issue I had was mostly getting my braze to stick to the stainless tube. Using both thin high silver content bronze rods and sliver solder, as well as an array of flux' it just would not go. Ended up cleaning everything off and just using a bronze rod with the gas inline and it seemed to solve the problem.