Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

There's a fair chance beagle is right and it's not a mismatched race but the lower part of the old cartridge bearing now rusted to the crown race and looking very much like a crown race.
Did the lower bearing come out as a full bearing?

Thank you, yes it a langster, the bearings are fine, have photos of both the bottom and the top bearings.
There is no conical cone on top, just normal spacers and a washer.
The fork doesn't sit on the lower race so I thought the lower race was the wrong one. As it didn't meet the lower bearing.
So where can I get a washer and where do I fit it?

It is this bike https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/386140/#comment17002721

So where can I get a washer and where do I fit it?

If you don't have the tools, ask your LBS to remove the old crown race left over from the stock loose ball bearing and fit a new crown race suitable for your bearings. If you do have the relevant bearing puller (or a couple of screwdrivers you don't mind wrecking) and crown race setter, the part is about a fiver. If you get a split crown race, you don't even need a tool to fit it.

Did the lower bearing come out as a full bearing?

The lower bearing was still in the head tube intact when he took the pictures he showed us

Looking again, that’s the standard specialized crown race for their ‘semi integrated’ headspace headset. Which is a caged bearing job. It looks like somebody has knocked out the inserts for the bearings and replaced them with cartridge ones, but haven’t changed the race or used the spacer/right top.

I knew I’d seen it on here before.
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/8731323/
I followed this when I did mine.
It’s 3mm not 2mm but I was close.

Ah yeah, I'm no longer sat watching it not load with shit signal and getting bored. Someone's fucked up in the past at some point either way.

Someone's fucked up in the past

And it was Specialized. They saved about $1 by not using a proper cartridge bearing IS headset in the first place.

Between those points, but very much yes.

I recon someone in procurement pressed the wrong button and ordered 20,000,000 bearings races so they designed the headspace to use them up. They put them on so many otherwise good bikes.

Ok what lower race do I ask for? Just want to get the bike rideable.
The fork isn't the original specialised fork but just want the bike rideable and safe.

Ok what lower race do I ask for?

You need a crown race for cartridge bearings with the correct chamfer angle, it's probably 36° but 45° exists and you don't want the wrong one as that will leave you in the same position as you're in now.

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Typical 36° crown race would be TH Industries part number H6082, for 45° H6119, the search term "FSA+part number" gives you a choice of suppliers

Yeah that is right for the bottom bearing, where do I put the bearing spacer? Do I put the spacer between headset outer and the frame to bring the bearing lower to meet the fork crown.

@gbj_tester the bottom bearing seems to high in the frame to actually meet the crown race on the fork

The spacer goes between the compression ring and the dust cover at the top. It’s just a regular spacer. You could try any size spacer to test that it fixes the issue, obviously you wouldn’t want to actually run the dust cover too far away from the bearings otherwise it would be pointless.

Could I drill this bridge to accept a brake?

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Is it hollow underneath?

no, appears to be completely solid

bottom bearing seems to high in the frame to actually meet the crown race on the fork

You'll need to offer up the correct crown race once you have it in hand to see whether it seats in the bearing and protrudes from the frame. If it does the former but not the latter, you'll need one or more standard headset shims under it when you fit it to the steerer.

At this point it's time for #spam with respect to the upper bearing, if you need small increment spacers and a dust cover I can help

Could I drill this bridge to accept a brake?

I can't see why it would be that shape if it wasn't meant to be drilled 🙂

figured the same, just wanted confirmation :)

Reading that I seem to remember having to put the 2 shims that came in the CC IS2 headset, under the crown race and a 3mm one above the top race.
If it was me I’d just buy the headset I linked to earlier and be done with it for £19.

Hello,

There is a wedge shapped compression ring, should there be a flat area too for the spacers to sit on? There isn't enough space for the dust cover as the fork has been cut so short.
Will get more photos.

Will just get the replacement you listed and I'm sure I can hit 50...sad thing is I know where that place is.

@gbj_tester ah I get it, so wish I hadn't bought this bike.

Do you think this will fit in a standard 1 inch stem and be ok to ride
https://bankruptbikeparts.co.uk/collections/handlebars/products/ducati-kids-bike-handlebar-stem-set-suit-10-12-or-14-wheel-kiddies-bike-22-2?

To fit this to a bike
Going to be hard with a one inch quill stem...

If the steerer is short have a measure up before hitting buy it. The conical dust cap is 15mm high on its own, plus the possible shims under the crown race etc. If the fork does turn out to be too short I may have a battered spesh pair in the shed, I’ll have a look later.
Don’t despair those langsters are nice bikes, they had a bad rep for being fake track bikes, but ride well.