Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

just found that, couldn't find the website before but got it now. Thanks

Ahhh yeah, thanks all, great - the version I’m looking for doesn’t have drum brakes, but some slightly muggy-looking chrome(?) rims and calliper brakes. I’m sure it’s the same type/frame/forks in the link, just older, but couldn’t find a pic. From what I can tell, the version before the calliper brake is rod brake, and looks to use the same style of thick/flat chrome rim.

@snottyotter good idea, didn’t think to check the sidewall mold info, but they’re cracked and perished, so prob no use either!

If it's rod brakes you also need a certain shitty type of rim for them, usually sold as Westwood which makes them sound much cooler than they are.

sold as Westwood which makes them sound much cooler than they are

In which universe is Westwood associated with cool?

I said sound cool.

You could ask Royce directly. I see Cliff a few times each year and he is always helpful.

Sadly not for 597, had to fall back on Kenda for that size.

Will do, thanks

New pro5 has like zero drag built two now and Beth impressed. Beware with xd driver there's a thing you have to do with fitting cassette and then taking it off again to push the spacer thing into the hub. Microspline is a bit different but also like zero drag.

Can't imagine that dirt sealing is as good

Been a mtber for 20+ years. It's the one thing I don't do for customers. Older lyric and pike sort of size forks from about ten years ago seemed to have an issue with the lower bush rattling up the casting = slacker

Have a 30,32 and 36mm tool i made up on a lathe many years ago but not 35mm. There now 38 and 40 and the cost of material and machine time just to make a head, ignoring the rest of the thing is gonna be over £150. So the£350 isn't actually that bad#

#perfectly justifies bike tools being mad high pricey

Anyone know what these bearings could be

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Also is this the right fork crown as there seems to be alot of play. Is there something missing or wrongly fitted

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Take them out and measure them (or, if you're lucky, read the dimensions off the side)

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That's a crown race for loose balls, the bearings are cartridge type which want a conical seat

High ponsibility that the cartridge bearing has disintegrated, what you see there is one half of it and it has bonded onto the built in crown race of the forks.

Did ball bearings just fall out when removed?

Photo of the bottom of the head tube if you have one?

Photo of the bottom of the head tube if you have one?

He posted one, check again 🙂

Is it? Doesn’t look concave enough to me.

Probably best getting shot of everything and starting fresh, it’s not like just buying bearings gonna save you a load of cash.

Doesn’t look concave enough

But it shouldn't be concave at all for cartridge bearings. If I had to guess, I'd say 3/16" rather than 5/32" 📏

Probably best getting shot of everything and starting fresh

Yes, obviously, but he still needs to match at least the bearing diameters and outer chamfer angle

Looks like an old langster to me, if so the internal bearing cups have been knocked out and the whole shabang has been replaced with one of these
https://bankruptbikeparts.co.uk/products/fsa-is-2-41mm-integrated-headset-1-1-8-steerer-road-bike-cane-creek-compatible-with-50-off
and the conical spacer has gone missing. This is run with a (I think) 2mm spacer under it or they don’t touch as the head tube is too deep to meet up.

Indeed he did.

In that case yeah, could well be mismatched race and bearing.

Crown race for loose balls should definitely be concave!

I think we aren’t understanding each other somehow.

Put a straight edge across the face of the head tube and the top of the bearing race will be below it, fit spacer to fill the void, put back together play is gone. Or fit the original conical top, which I’m sure you don’t have.
99% sure that’s the answer

I think we aren’t understanding each other somehow

Edited my post for additional clarity