Home DIY

I'll see if I can find my shortlist.

But from memory there are a few UK suppliers who cut to size.

Posted without comment.

finewoodworking.com how-to-build-old-fashioned-carriage-doors

Does anyone in the UK make a completely plain flush exterior door with ply faces and a PIR / foam core for insulation purposes? Googling & phoning yields nothing, all computer-says-no plastic composite or solid ply.

Can't give you a definitive answer, but when we were looking nice doors were all composite or solid.

I'm not sure there would be demand for ply faced composite doors. Either you want trad wood, or you want practical composite.

Even composite places make their doors, so you could always try and contact them to get a blank door and face with ply.

I’ll probably just make it myself in the end. £150 in materials and I’ll get exactly what I want.

I thought you could just get an external fire door blank and add a thin veneer of marine ply. But then I looked up fire doors and somewhat counterintuitively they have very poor thermal insulation!

By the time you’re buying a specifically good insulating blank it is probably more sensible to make it yourself

I’ll probably just sandwich a board of rigid insulation between two 18mm marine ply, solid wood border all the way around.

I wonder if building control are going to start failing every solid wood door soon. Doubt it, but nothing out there is coming close to a 1.4 u value.

Do. not. like.

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Know any good plasterers?

What’s going on there? Looks like a sub-ceiling that the tiles were stuck on to

obviously that much adhesive 100% necessary to hold up literal grams of polystyrene. a lot of the adhesive blobs are twice the thickness of the tiles

Inverse self levelling compound isn’t it?

it's an extension from the back of the house of questionable workmanship.

the plug in the far left that has a cable running outside powers a double external socket and then the entire rear 8x4.5m summerhouse is ran off of that extension, lights, sockets the lot.

we have an electrician coming to do an eicr and then quote to replace the consumer unit, run proper power out to the summer house and check for every hidden bodge they can find.

oh the closest edge looks weird because that's actually the trim on the archway you can see not the edge of the ceiling. the ceiling is pretty weird though.

I have this floor:

That is made of this stuff:

And it's a bit creaky. I've had a look, and it seems like it's the boards moving on the nails, rather than anything with the joists. A couple of tongues have been cut off by the electrician, but I can lit those easily and add any additional wood.

Does anyone have any ideas for the rest? A decent screw put in next to each existing nail?

The carpet is coming next Tuesday, so I have a few days to try things.

anybody ever used some sort of wall plug/plasterboard fixing or whatever to fit something to Celotex or other insulated plasterboard? I have 65mm of that before brick and I worry about the leverage of going all the way through, but also about all my bikes coming off the wall

Chipboard should always be screwed in with chipboard screws, not nailed. Do that and it will stop squeaking.

That's good to know! This type of thing? (swapped link to Wickes one)

The house is late 1960s - early 1970s if that makes any difference. Lots of nails used where nowadays I'd expect and use a screw.

I've got one of these tables and the top is a bit warped and knackered.

Would like to replace the top with something slightly larger (say 550x700) and not slatted so I can use it for pizza oven/portable barbecue. It will certainly be outside for all the summer and possibly a fair bit of the rest of the year.

A piece of varnished marine ply seems the obvious (I'm guessing 12mm) but it is expensive and only seems to be available in large sheets (or pre-cut but almost the same price as a large sheet).

Is there anywhere selling smaller bits of marine ply at a more reasonable price with either cheap delivery or around Tottenham that anyone can point me in the direction of?

Or, is this kind of stuff actually suitable for outdoor use if varnished as it suggests or will that just end up being need to replaced all the time
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Structural-Plywood-CE2%2B---12-X-1220-X-2440mm/p/252241

Cheers

Is there anywhere selling smaller bits of marine ply at a more reasonable price

Lol. No. 2015 called and it wants it's prices back :)

How sturdy is it? If it's for a pizza oven I wonder if a tile or peice of marble would be better? In which case maybe get creative on FBM / ebay. I can imagine this time of year there must be loads of reno work in north LDN.

Otherwise go to the Green Lanes super store on a Sunday afternoon and look through the offcuts. If there's nothing there get a bit cut to size.

Out of curiosity what is the rational for not wanting slats?

I'd be tempted to use old pallet cross peices and marine varnish - or if you want to try something different that japanese burning thing. It'll be rough, but the slats would let water through and if it gets fucked you won't care.

I bought a tool to cut a space in the insulation for grip-it fixings which worked well for radiators though we had feet for them as well as I didn’t fancy putting all that weight just on the plasterboard as I have 60mm of phenolic foam before masonry.
I think Bullfix work on insulated plasterboard or there are the fixings for external insulation which are a big plastic screw and a torx screw down the middle that might work.

what about composite deck boards?

Hmm - doubt any kind of varnished ply would do too well on that to be honest. Slats let water through. If it sits on top it will just warp- Whatever it is. You could get some wider boards (pallet / scaffold board / or hardwood) so less slatty but still some drainage. A nice thick (40mm) solid wood worktop off cut might work for a while too.

Yep, that's the sort of thing you need.
Nailed on chipboard was all the thing in the 60s, before they realised it loosened around nails, rather than tightened like wood does.