Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Is cold setting a steel BMX frames 110mm rear spacing to 135mm to fit a hub motor wheel a step too far? I’ll see if it can be slimmed down a bit, but worst case and all that.

  • Use smaller pin spanner and see if it moves, can you engage both pin holes at once?

  • My bike jumped out of my turbo whilst zwifting. Is it now a death trap? Any recommendations for carbon integrity checking. Pic 2 is a scrape and pic 1 is a gouge about 1mm in depth


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  • Cheers, I carefully enlarged the holes to make the tool fit snug.

    Managed to make it rotate approx 1,5 turn, then it seizes. Need to find a creative solution to get it out.. The pin tool don't have enough leverage and bends to much to feel safe to use. Good news it actually moves!

  • Are you using one like this? The park red/blue handled ones will be too flexible.

  • Managed to make it rotate approx 1,5 turn, then it seizes.

    Try GT85 or similar and repeatedly rotate both ways within the limit of movement, this will allow the lubricant to work along the threads, you may get slightly more movement each time

  • Unfortunately I have the Park ones you describe, and I agree this seems like a better tool for the job.

  • I had one of these stupid pinhole BB that wouldn’t budge and no tool would work on it. Ended up welding a bit of rod to it to use for extra leverage and it came right out. Part of it breaking free I think was an intense shot of heat, so maybe give it a go with a blow torch as well as working back and forth.

  • Does the drive side cup move?

  • I just used some WD-40 and then a punch and hammered the BB into the turn direction, eventually it backed out. BB is done after that tho

  • Ah that sucks. Pic 2 looks fine. Pic 1 I would but some clear nail varnish or epoxy on and keep an eye on it. A seatstay won’t kill you if it snaps and normally the crack will grow slowly if the damage is critical, then you can send it off for repair if you see it growing.

  • I’m struggling with my Brompton’s front hub. I noticed weeks ago that it wasn’t spinning freely, so I pulled it apart. The preload was ridiculous, the bearings had slight wear, and one of the cones had v. light pitting. The races had a decoloured line but they weren’t scored or pitted.

    I replaced the bearings, regreased, and reassembled. A few weeks later, the wheel again wasn’t spinning freely, and the cones had tightened against the bearings. I disassembled, inspected, deduced I hadn’t tightened the cones correctly previously, and reassembled.

    Well a week ago it happened again. I’ve barely used the bike, not that it should matter anyway.

    Any ideas? I’ve serviced hubs in far worse state than this, and they don’t self-tighten like this.

  • Do they have lock nuts against the cones?

  • This is driving me crazy, still looking for a way to run SRAM GXP cranks in my Caad12 BB30 frame.
    I ended up getting a bottom bracket from AliExpress which looked really nice. You push both halves together and thread to tighten.

    The problem I have now is this plastic cable guide now gets in the way. Is there a way to run the cables without the plastic guide or do I need to buy yet another bottom bracket?

    Because of this stupid cable guide, I couldn't use my lovely FSA BB30 threaded adapter. 😡


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  • You may have to be content with BB30 bearings and adapter cups, or buy AXS.

  • do I need to buy yet another bottom bracket?

    If you've only got about a tenner sunk into that chinesium BB, you might as well install it and then Dremel away whichever bit ends up in the way of the cable guide

  • Yep. Bought a new axle in case there’s a bend I can’t quite detect. Still bites occasionally, so I’m thinking it’s a particular pit in the cup that’s effing it all up.

  • I can’t just have the cable rubbing over the outer shell of the BB?
    What about placing a bit of cable outer over the offending area? Hopefully it wouldn’t move if the cable is just moving through the outer.

  • Edit: I hit send twice

  • Edit: I hit send thrice

  • The @Nef experience has led me to check on my own steerer tube!
    What do the resident doyennes/doyens say? This is a 50 year old step through Crescent.


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  • What do the resident doyennes/doyens say?

    Your brake centre bolt is too short

  • Nope, it’s tight and hasn’t moved for a couple of years, just engages with the plastic too.
    What do you think about the steerer condition?

  • On the talk of lifeline carbon pads, do they fit r8000 brake shoe holders? Last time I ordered them I struggled and return them

  • Can’t see anything wrong with the steerer. I would agree there is not enough thread through that nut. Need a couple of threads through a nut for it to be ideal.

    I’m sure it will continue to be ok but it’s not best practice.

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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