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  • Back from a thoroughly enjoyable microadventure/mini tour to France with a difference, in that I based myself in one place and pootled around that area.

    Day one: all about getting there and included a ride to East Croydon, train to Three Bridges and a ride to Lewes for dinner at my sister's before heading down the C7 to Newhaven for the ferry. It was just outside of Three Bridges at the first real climb that I realised I'd packed too much. Fortunately, most of the journey was downhill and it wasn't that far, so no real issues. Fair few riders waiting at the port, where they kindly loaded us on first.

    Managed to grab a bit of fitful sleep on the overnight crossing and got out the other side fairly quickly. Pleased I'd packed arm/leg warmers and a down jacket because it was fucking freezing along the Avenue Verte. Didn't warm up properly until the first big climb - and I say 'big', it wasn't all that. Felt horrendous with a fully-loaded bike, though. Hadn't bargained for nothing being open for refuelling or for how long it would take, so didn't get time to fully appreciate the lovely rolling countryside, meandering rivers and traffic-free (bumpy, shit-surfaced) roads or take any pictures as I had a train to catch from Rouen. Not helped by having to get off and push for 100 yards on one hill. I've never had to do this, so that didn't half dampen the spirits. Made the train with five minutes to spare, so all good.

    Train to Paris fine - bike space and seat next to it available. Even managed to doze off. Ride across Paris also pretty good as it involved getting to the Seine and riding along the bike/jogger/rollerskating path that skirts the river. Had enough time to grab a sandwich at Austerlitz before catching the train to Blois. Bike space available on the SNCF-Remi train that runs to the Loire region, but a bit crap as it's in the vestibule and you can't really sit next to it, so an element of trust is required. The ride from Blois to Amboise, where I was based, was the highlight of a long 24 hours - 30kph tail wind and smooth, isolated roads.

    Day two and three: zero riding. Watched the Giro, kicked back, drank beers, ate food, felt mildly guilty but not overly so. It's a holiday after all.

    Day four: ride of the three rivers (Loire, Cher, Indre) that was definitely a case of BROSH (big ring out; small home) took in Chenonceaux castle (where they wouldn't let me in the grounds with my bike, so I had to leave), a closed brewery near Cormery and a portion of the Loire à Vélo cycle track back to Amboise. Glorious weather, plenty of free water fountains in villages and a tail wind on the way out that weakened as a headwind on the way back. Bliss. There aren't really many hills in the area, but it's nicely undulating and the rivers and winding roads keep things interesting. Again, barely any traffic.

    Day five: nothing short of a 100km ascent, or rather, riding into a block headwind for five hours. I knew there would be payback after the ride on the way in and I wasn't wrong. It was horrendous. I was nearly in tears at one point. The wind was bad enough, but the gusts were stupid, scrubbing off a good 4-5kph off my 'speed' within moments. The only thing that made up for it was the scenery. A largely flat course alongside the mighty Loire that was easy to follow and mainly nice tarmac, though there were long stretches of tightly packed gravel. Only gripe apart from the wind was the lack of water fountains along the route. Would have thought they'd be easy enough to install every 20km or so, but I found one on the route in a tiny village and one a little bit off the route about 8km from Orléans (my final destination). Nearly ran out a couple of times as a result.

    Day six: mooching about Orléans with the bike safely ensconced in the hotel's bike shed.

    Day seven: train to Paris with decent bike space, white-knuckle ride across Paris that involved a lot of riding the wrong way down one-way streets in the 'Sauf vélos' lanes and avoiding headphone-wearing goons who were justifiably only looking one way before crossing the road. Covering the brakes essential. Bike space back to Rouen all good, then decided to get the train back to Dieppe as there was no way I'd have been able to make it to the ferry in time. Wondered whether I'd even manage to get out of Rouen given the hills I came down on the way in.

    Day eight: after a night in Lewes, a train journey back to East Croydon and a ride back from there.

    What I learned:
    Packed way too much; could probably have done the lot with a big saddlebag and a handlebar bag and saved a good 5-6kg.
    Never ride upriver on the Loire because the prevailing wind is in your face the whole time and it's awful, especially with panniers.
    Take a café lock. Not having any way of securing the bike meant a bit too much trusting of Joe le Public, which was fine, but not ideal.
    Having days when you don't have to ride is great.
    I need a new saddle; when your perineum hurts way more than your legs, it's probably worth shelling out for a proper arse-fitting and new seat.

    A few pix:


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