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• #40852
But when you remove the old floor the rest of the room will be lower than the bit you concreted.. unless you plan on just flooring ontop of if all
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• #40853
Maybe 9mm plasterboard over the top and skim would save removal/repair and retain a tiny bit of insulation.
having had a peek underneath some of the tiles i'm almost certainly going to be going this route now but I'll pull all the tiles down and just go over the old ceiling as I'd rather they weren't up there. covered or not.
also from the photos i posted we stripped the wallpaper in the room with the leaf pattern and the one with the blue red single beds in about 20 minutes by hand. it was apparently only being held up by a strong belief in itself. most of the walls are back to bare plaster but a couple have crumbly paint flaking off but we have to get a wallpaper steamer for the hideous woodchip type paper in the butterfly box room, dining and living rooms anyways so I'm hoping it might also help shift some of the old paint too.
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• #40854
The tiles are cemented down onto concrete base, about 100m^2 of them. So I'm not keen to even think of trying to take them up. When I floor I'll put self leaving on then and then a wood floor.
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• #40855
^that's what I assumed. You're in Spain right?
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• #40856
Yes. Classic Spanish floor.
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• #40857
Very limited experience* but I bought this Erbauer one based on price and reviews.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-ero400-125mm-electric-random-orbital-sander-220-240v/581fx
Haven't used it in anger, but have been very happy with it for the few jobs so far. Ironically the main reason for getting it is the same as you... but the doors are waaaay down the TDL.
As always for me, a bag or case is an important factor, but especially for something with a cable and a load of attachments/accessories.
*used a fairly shit B&D one of my folks back in the day, and mate's Makita one a few years ago.
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• #40858
Dripping tap....
Is their a adjustment / fix / bodge to stop my outdoor tap leaking?
It's mainly from the actual tap (red arrow), but possibly also from the join (yellow arrow).
Most important factor is I can't, or am not sure I can shut off the water:
- local shut off valve is old and has been painted over
- main exterior water shut off doesn't appear to be connected (idk if this was an old school thing, or a bodge, or what)
- water pressure is savage (although there is a toilet connected which I can flush to temporarily reduce pressure
1 Attachment
- local shut off valve is old and has been painted over
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• #40859
Shit hallway wall with lining paper...
Is there a way to rectify this uneven and slightly dented wall? Obvs quite hard to photograph but hopefully you kind of get the idea.
Like is there such thing as a interior high build primer?
I'd prefer not to redo the lining paper for all sorts of reasons.
Any other options?
1 Attachment
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• #40860
You can try undoing the nut the red arrow points to without shutting the water off and squeezing some PTFE round the stem(?) before doing it back up. Search "leaking stop tap" or similar on YouTube for examples.
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• #40861
The screwfix ebauer one is fine.
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• #40862
Cheers!
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• #40863
@Howard @hugo7 thanks will order one today.
Re the lining paper, difficult to see from the pics on phone but you could rub over by hand with 200 grit which flattens the top off the texture, spot fill any holes with fine surface filler and then any areas with obvious roller marks fill with a very thin layer using a wide blade at 90° to wall so you are just filling the tiny dips in the surface and then a very light sand over the top.
Use a heavy pile roller which will add texture.
Any big areas of flat filler I’m using a damp sponge and some fine filler to add some texture to match the surrounding surface.Its what I’m doing on the problem areas, have stripped one wall due to blown plaster but don’t have the time or budget to do every wall.
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• #40864
The red just might need a nip if that doesnt work loose it off and try tape it.
The yellow it will need a washer 3/4 fibre is my pick if it isnt running down from the top.
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• #40865
Cheers all!
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• #40866
thanks will order one today
I have the titan one from Toolstation. Very likely similar. Mine died within a year after being thoroughly abused but was replaced with no questions. Screwfix seem to be similarly good on returns so long as you have your receipt/online order in your account.
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• #40867
Will decide tomorrow on which branch of toolstation or screwfix has stock.
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• #40868
Second the Erbauer from Screwfix or B&Q.
I've also used it a lot more than I thought I would, so it was definitely money well spent and it was quite cheap to start with.
I also replaced a Bosch palm/detail sander where the velcro for attaching sheets fell off with the Erbauer version and I think it's much better.
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• #40869
Re budget RA sanders. Don’t buy really cheap discs. The Velcro is crap and I’ve frisbeed an embarrassing number of them into my neighbour’s gardens
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• #40870
TBH getting the bastard things off is something I've struggled with in the past. If they are ejecting from your sander, I'd look the state of the pad, it's possible to fuck them right up so that the discs will no longer adhere.
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• #40871
You can buy replacement pads. No need to chuck an otherwise good sander.
Usually though they just need a good de-fluffing.
Also just buy 3M discs, not the cheap things. -
• #40872
It depends on the quality of the equipment/consumables but the biggest reason for damage to the pads and paper is heat which is caused by moving the sander to slowly and/or pressing to hard.
If you keep it moving and don't try to grind with it you will save a lot of money in pads and paper.
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• #40873
Nah it was just my fault trying to get away with super cheap discs. Decent ones don’t want to launch themselves into the stratosphere
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• #40874
Who is the go to for workbench / tool storage / pegboard solutions?
I like the look of the Draper Bunker stuff - that would solve my problem but I wonder about the cost and the weight - 55” workbench / storage is around 200kg.
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• #40875
Do Big Dug have what you need? https://www.bigdug.co.uk/
I've heard good thing about them but never used them.
Was going to hire one but decided to buy a random orbital sander, probably 125mm and up to £60 have 8 doors to rub down and need to fill some gaps on the floor with water based gap filler plus wood dust and then sand. could hire the big walk behind sander for this but that doesn’t do doors :-) .
Needs to be corded as we only have one Makita battery and that’s not enough for a lot of sanding.
any recommendations would be helpful.