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• #5727
was just going to tie with sandwich bag twists or elec tape
Electrical tape is the answer if you don't have a Park Tool thingy to clip on the old one, then guide the new one
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• #5728
Thanks - reassuring that it's not just me.
I can't wear mitts as they always (I've tried lots of different brands and sizes) bunch up between the fingers on my left hand and get painful. Right hand is OK. I can manage better with full finger mountain biking summer gloves but the ones I've tried do bunch up a bit after a while.
I thought about trying to shave the ridges off but worried I'd make a mess of it and end up making it worse. I also thought about putting bar tape on the hoods, but worried it wouldn't work and I'd have a sticky mess, or lose grip when braking with disastrous consequences.
I rode for 3-4 hours on Saturday with them and it wasn't too bad, but I won't get another long ride on them before I do my ultra, so I'll just take a few glove options and try to grow new skin quickly at night.
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• #5729
The grrl had the same issue. She eventually found a pair she liked. Do you want me to find out what brand they are?
Funnily enough, I've been wearing her old pair of Specialized mitts (someone forgot theirs after a trip :S) and have the same issue. Turns out it was a bit of sub-par stitching combined with them being too small. She trimmed the excess material from the inside and they've been fine.
So maybe have a look at the stitching inside your gloves? Maybe try smaller gloves but leave them undone?
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• #5730
Regarding internal battery holders, why would you put a part you can mount anywhere higher rather than lower?
The lower the weight is located in your bike, the lighter it feels. When I did the Di2 retromod on my ISP bike, I figured the best place for the battery was at the bottom of the seat tube.
This is a bit crude, but it works. Some kevlar string attached to the battery is wound around a bit of rolled-up bubble wrap, with the whole mess stuffed down as low as it will go with a broom handle or whatever, and the end of the string is just held up with a bit of bluetack.
(The loop of wire is to orient my battery so its shaved sides are facing the right way so it doesn't jam; anyone else could just attach the string directly to the battery.)
Full story on the retromod if anyone's interested: https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1230520-9150-controlling-9070-a.html
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• #5731
It's like 50g of battery.
I would put money on you not being able to discern its position on a frame in a blind test.
As for it being the best place, maybe. But you've picked weight distribution as being 'best' but ignored the fact that lower it is the harder it is to retrieve and the more likely it is going to be exposed to water.
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• #5732
I would put money on you not being able to discern its position on a frame in a blind test.
This^ I’d confidently bet my kids on it.
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• #5733
I would put money on you not being able to discern its position on a frame in a blind test.
So? It nevertheless contributes to the overall feel, along with every other minor thing. Am I actually mistaken in assuming there are folks here who like to fettle their gear to a high state of tune? I'd put lots of money on people not being able to tell the difference OSPWs make, but that doesn't make the marginal gain worthless. What sort of disingenuous crap is this, where you ignore that folks like to irrationally chase perfection?
Am I also mistaken to believe Di2 is waterproof?
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• #5734
contributes to the overall feel
Not if you can't feel it, which is entirely my point.
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• #5735
difference OSPWs make
Measurable in watts whether or not you can feel it.
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• #5736
Di2 is waterproof
There are limits to its waterproofness and in my use case I would keep the battery as far from water as possible.
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• #5737
What sort of disingenuous crap is this, where you ignore that folks like to irrationally chase perfection?
Why so upset I don't like your idea? We don't have to like everyone's setups.
People colour match the undersides of their show cars. Realistically, it's a fucking stupid thing to do but it's a neat detail. There's lots of aesthetic choices people make that aren't necessarily done for anything other than "ooh I have an interesting idea".
Don't pretend you can tell your bike handles differently with battery placement though.
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• #5738
Don't pretend you can tell your bike handles differently with battery placement though.
Who's pretending that? All I said was that it seems stupid to put weight higher when you could put it lower. And that your bike feels lighter with a lower centre of gravity. Handling was not mentioned.
If your bike is under six and half kilos, and you put the wheels in a groove and rock the bike from side to side with your hand on the top tube, it's not implausible that you could actually tell the difference between 50-odd grams being in the seat post or above the BB.
This sort of improvement, with the help of other such improvements (lighter seat, stem, bar?), is guaranteed to make your bike feel more fun.
If you have to argue with that, then pff
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• #5739
your bike feels lighter with a lower centre of gravity. Handling was not mentioned.
Um.
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• #5740
If you have to argue with that
Are you new here?
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• #5741
Just trying to save time; pff in advance
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• #5742
Anyway, back to Di2. The new cables are in, there's been no battery drain in any config though, before or after new cables so I might've "fixed" the issue temporarily with all the yanking of cables.
The D-Fly thing is going to go back in the box - I'll probably keep it for testing unless someone wants one that's basically new.
Decided not to take a link out of the chain, just wound the B screw out to take up the slack when in the 30T chainring. It'll be primarily climbing and then coasting, no attacking, so shifting performance can suffer for the lowest possible gearing.
Still waiting on the battery mount to properly finish it off but I've broken the seatclamp installing the eeSilk post so had to order a new one of those. Pity the August Cycles light mounting clamp wouldn't work with my large saddle bag as that's a neat option.
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• #5743
Has anyone tried Rotor rings (round) with Di2 12sp? I'm looking at a vgc 2/h Endurace which comes with a Rotor chainset (was apparently stock?). Obviously worst case I could just change it over but it's a further expense and hassle. Is there any noticeable difference in shifting?
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• #5744
Running 11 speed rotor rings on 12 speed di2, no troubles whatsoever.
1 Attachment
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• #5745
Much appreciated, thanks - and nice bike. New Supersix?
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• #5746
I have used tiny strips of climbers tape to cover the skin between thumb and index finger and prevent blistering, probably not that comfortable after 4-5h, but better than having a blister I suppose. Take some tape and compeed with you and see how you get on? Definitely try to prevent the blister formation by gradually building up skin resistance if you can
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• #5747
Ditto no issues, it's just flat top they don't work with.
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• #5748
This is the previous gen one actually.
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• #5749
Was that more douchey disingenuousness, that conflation of handling properties with wieldiness?
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• #5750
I found the ability to switch garmin screens with the extra buttons on top of the shifters to be super useful. Can switch screens when riding on bumpy roads or when rain is messing up the touchscreen. So could be worth leaving the d fly in and giving it a go?
Yeah, you can get Di2 compatible posts.
I'm putting my eeSilk on the Mason, so it'll have an actual tube to install into rather than the split post VCLS I've been using. To be fair, the eeSilk is just using taped foam so I could even use the same battery off the Tripster.