Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

Impressive, very nice.
What have you got in store for this one?

You ought to find yourself one of these now. 😛

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Not sure yet, but the red/silver decals of my campa hyperons exactly match the colorway… 😮‍💨

Tbh a nice cycloX frame is really the only project I can think of right now that would motivate me to pursue

But hard to find this

What's the verdict on the Cannondale One cranks?

I can't fit the BB for my Praxis Zayante because the CaadX doesn't have a straight bore through the BB shell so need some native BB30 cranks. Or at least I can't until such point as I decide to do something drastic...but don't want to do that until I know it's a keeper.

You could just use push in adapters with bb30 bearings for any 24mm crank

The BB30 should be straight through. You might just need to remove the circlips from inside the shell.

Yeah but I don't want to do that, not yet at least. None of the 24mm cranks I've got fit the aesthetic I'm going for...

@b0n0rv2 there is a big ridge of alloy through the centre of the shell on this one https://www.lfgss.com/comments/16986669/

I need to replace the Bottom Bracket on a 2017 Super Six Evo Disc. Apparently I need a PF30 bb? I googled that but everything looks very different. Some seem to be Pf pressfit some have threads. I am confused. Can somebody enlighten me?

If it is PF30...which it probably is in that era, then you need one of these or similar.

There shouldn't be any threads involved, and it should be the 30mm spindle, so no DUB nonsense.

Thank you 🙏
At the moment I am riding the cannondale SI cranks that came with the bike but I might change that. Would that bb you linked work with any 30mm axle crank. Let’s say Rotors for example?
Also is there a slightly more upper shelf bb I can buy? I don’t need ceramic bearings but I wouldn’t mind paying a bit more if it will last longer.

The Cannondale cranks are pretty good TBH, unless you really like the aesthetic of Rotors there's not really a compelling reason to change them. No guarantees the Rotors will fit, but they probably will, assuming there's no weirdness in the lenght of their axle and profiling of the crank arms so that they clear the chain and seat stays.

You can get PF30 bbs from other manufacturers like FSA, SRAM etc, not sure how much or if the quality changes at that level. There are some super spendy options, probably not worth it.

I'm pretty sure the 2017 supersix if PF30a. I recently upgraded my 2014 which is PF30 (not PF30a) with a wheels mfg BB and it's great. Check the BB finder here to be sure https://wheelsmfg.com/bbfinder super easy install which is nice.

Thank you 🙏
Yeah I was looking at the wheels mfg bbs but weren’t quite sure which one I should buy. I guess I have to do some measuring.
So you have one of those threaded sleeve bbs?

I went with a thread together one, ended up having to borrow a tool from the lbs as its 48.5mm 16 notch design.

I just had a a quick look on the BB finder and I'm not sure they do an option for PF30a and Cannondale axle length unfortunately 👎

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I miss square taper 🥲

I don't!

I’d have thought this one, though it looks like it wants 91mm spindle length
https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/cannondale-pf30a/pf30a-outboard-abec-3-bb-for-30mm-cranks-black.html

Alternative from C-Bear
https://www.c-bear.com/bbchart.pdf

https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/pf30-bb30-fsa-sram

I'm pretty sure the 2017 supersix if PF30a

Did wonder. Manual is here, you are right.

Sure this’ll have been discussed many times but the paint blister that appears on many of the older aluminium caad frames, is it easily treated, as in, remove paint, treat with a magic solution and repaint?

Appreciate its oxidisation of the aluminium but can it (like rust on steel) eat through a tube or is it mainly surface only?

Or neither?

Or both?

I may be wrong but I believe aluminium oxidises on the surface and almost produces a protective layer preventing the rest of the metal oxidising and it's therefore fine.
But then I have seen handlebars almost eaten all the way through by sweat so who knowsn

mmm, thanks.

The blistering is on underside of down tube so guess that leads me to the ‘is salty road muck better or worse than salty man sweat for 20yr old aluminium road frames’ conundrum?

Myself and others have had successful in sanding back the oxidisation to bare metal (on a SystemSix and a CAAD8) - structurally has been totally fine underneath. Haven't repainted though, just left raw.

Ah ok, not sealed the aluminium in any way?

I’ve now taken a (relatively sound I hope) punt on something, pictures will follow on its arrival.

Not something you see everyday...not the best photo though

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Love those late 90’s early 00’s tandems, they pop up decently priced nowadays.
Switched tires from 1.5 to 2.1 on my Franck Cannondale and bled the brakes for the first time in a few years, rides a lot smoother steering wise but sadly still an inch or so too small

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