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• #1352
Bearings, quicker to change them than posting about.
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• #1353
Not if you don't have them.
There's also no point changing bearings if they're fine and it's the frame interface that's making the noise.
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• #1354
Very rare the frame, changing the bearings is the next step after you checked the pedals etc. But yes you need the bearings first. Don't forget grease. All sorted then.
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• #1355
Alu shell, so BB30. Also, see it has BB30 written on the Cannondale BB so it's not the Spesh one, that's for sure. I probably got a BB with the 'dale cranks and installed that.
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• #1356
At least you don't have a Cannondale with BB30 written on the frame shell that's not actually BB30.
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• #1357
Wait, there's a BB with something written on it? BB30 is just bearings twatted in the frame, is it just Cannondale bearing covers?
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• #1358
Yeah it's Cannondale bearing covers, but I put them in, which means they must have come with Cannondale bearings. Found the email. They're basically Cannondale version of these https://www.bike24.com/p230408.html Looks like they don't do the kit any more but the bearings will surely be available.
Actually I've just found a bag of Cannondale crank tools and it has bearings in it. I reckon I bought the cranks with a BB and then bought another axle kit to reduce the Q-factor. Presumably the bearings are the same so looks like I might be able to swap them.
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• #1359
Extremely annoying clicking noise solved by removing and regreasing pedals. Approx 5000km.
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• #1360
They'll just be BB30 bearings then, 6806 from memory but definitely check that, I've had a few beers.
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• #1361
Yeah, 6806 on the seal. FSA BB30 3055 J5 on the outer.
https://www.bike24.com/p230408.htmlThe seals say ceramic but I wouldn't have bought ceramic bearings knowingly. I may just swap the seals for red ones, since red goes faster. Tomrrow though
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• #1362
Just get new 6806 whatevers and reuse all the other shite then ask all the same questions on here next time it goes wrong.
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• #1363
Pulled the cranks to swap PM battery. Looks like it's the bearings. They spin really nice but there's some side to side play. But this wasn't there when clamped down so I'm just going to leave these bearings in and deal with the click for now.
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• #1364
Bought a brand new pair of Shimano RS330s. The rear is making a noise every rotation a bit like a proper deep section rim i.e."womp womp". It doesn't sound gritty, the wheel spins completely freely and there's no play in the hub. I think it's coming from the hub, although the sound reverberates up to the rim. So far I've tried:
Checked nothing's rubbing
Tried it without the tire
Inspected the rim for objects etc
Checked no spokes are loose.
Checked for play in bearings
Tried backing off the cone slightly in case bearing was too loaded
Tried doing the quick release up very lightlyCould anything else be causing the noise or am I going to have to inspect and potentially overhaul the bearings on a brand new wheel?
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• #1365
Have you taken the wheel off and spun it in your hands? You might be able to feel something that helps narrow it down to the hub or the freehub. Curious to know what the cause is when you ID it.
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• #1366
Resurrecting an old thread!
My daughters track bike has developed a terrible creak under load. It isn't the saddle or seat post as it happens when out of the saddle. I did think it was the BB (Miche Pistard Air), but I took everything out, cleaned, regressed and did up to the correct torque. Still happening.
Any ideas? I'm wondering about the rear wheel, and maybe that needs a check?
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• #1367
It was last posted in 8 days ago, it's not exactly a zombie thread.
Pedals? Chainring bolts? Bars/stem? Does it happen once per revolution or randomly?
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• #1368
Solved my last squeak-based (most noticeable when grinding up hills) annoyance yesterday. Pedals were, on inspection, just about to explode off the spindles; washers and bearings all shot to sh*t.
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• #1369
Sorry, my mistake I only got to page 51 and not to the end of the thread. :)
I have checked the chainring bolts, but I'll double check them.
I'll take a look at the pedals. They are basic Look KEOs but are 5+ years old now I reckon. The creaking is loud but I guess the sound could travel through the cranks and through the frame.
Next time she is on the bike I'll check if its happening per rev or not. Thanks!
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• #1370
freehub bearings giving me the worst creak i've yet encountered on one of my bikes
started out as a single tick / click a month or two back
sounded like a pedal or bb creak, once per rotation has moved on to me thinking the frame was about to kark it this morning, proper horror movie rusty door hinge type sound on each rotationgood sign of this is pedals moving like you're riding fixed when you are pushing the bike, with the bearing causing drag
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• #1371
Getting an irregular high pitched squeak/chirp sound on the bike this morning. Seems to happen less on smooth surfaces than bumpy.
Still happens when freewheeling, so it's not cranks or BB.
Still happens when stood up, so it's not saddle or seatpost.
What else is it likely to be? Will try tightening stem bolts and top cap, and QRs, though I'm doubtful it's those.
I did replace the derailleur recently - but it's a brand new one and shifting great, so I'm also doubtful it's that. What else to try?
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• #1372
Wheels or freehub seem the most likely culprit. Go for the easy stuff first like skewers, freehub if it's an easily serviceable one.
If it happens when freewheeling it's not going to be the RD (unless it's slapping and sqeaking)
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• #1373
Good point on the derailleur.
No idea how to service a freehub, it's a Deore one so presumably plenty of guides online
Eurgh I hate diagnosing unwanted noises
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• #1374
Headphones in. Noise gone. ;)
Or, think of noise as an early warning system for deep cleaning your bike components.
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• #1375
Brakes rubbing a tiny bit? Especially if discs, a or hub seal maybe. Brakes check that rotors or rims are true, hubs a tiny bit of gt85 then test ride to see if it's gone will help narrow it down, be very careful with the spray if it's discs, freehub can be checked in a similar way, deore ones aren't really serviceable but ready enough to replace.
Could be a few things in that case, stupid specialized.