• Would it just be Tange 68/113? No idea how important sizes are or what other variability there might be in these things. Come to think of it I could well have had the UN300 put in, and the UN55 was what it was replacing..

    Also, how much room for variability might there be in the BB length - would 68/110 or 68/115 work ? Can find both of these on the bay.. Can also find a 113x68mm XT BB but no idea how that compares to the UN55. Also keen to know whether it would be a bad idea to buy cheapo crank pullers/BB tools off the net for very occasional jobs like these, or whether it would be worth investing in the usual Park/Icetoolz etc..

  • The lenght should correspond with the crankset and/or the desired chainline.

    Icetoolz or Cyclo stuff are good enough for me, never been tempted by Park.

  • Update on BB replacement - I have now procured the BB tool and crank extractor, only to run into the issue of 'the damned cranks aren't coming out'. Can get the wrench to turn ever so slightly by getting the wrench and crankarm in a V and pushing them together but ran out of time on the first try and gave up to try again this evening.

    Has made me wonder if my dinky 8inch 15mm spanner (I lack a torque wrench) might not give me the torque needed to get the cranks out (I have a slightly longer 32mm headset spanner that I am planning to use on the BB tool, but I have heard BB cups need even more torque..), and am equally worried about reinstallation of the cranks and torquing them to the right spec.. Has me wondering if I really should just have brought this to the LBS!

    Lastly, if I rode the bike to work, would it damage the bike to tighten everything back up, take it on a 20 or so km commute home with a potentially knackered BB (not yet diagnosed if it's because bearings are knackered or maybe if it's because BB has come loose after a year, all I know is that there's side to side play)? Other option is to fix it here (have brought the tools in with me)..

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