Home DIY

Every so often, the aluminium door on our garden office keeps refusing to lock when shut, which I think is due to it being misaligned (the key locks no bother when the door is open) It'll lock only if I shoulder the door inwards while turning the key.
It has butt hinges with an Allen key on the top and bottom. I think the top one adjusts vertical alignment, the bottom one does the horizontal. But can I get it lined up properly? No. Whatever adjustment I do, it seems to either have no effect or then suddenly make it considerably worse. The top of the door perhaps might be a bit warped? It leans out a few mm until you lift the handle and the latches engage. Is there anything I can do about that? Seems like no amount of hinge adjustment would correct that, so is it just a shit door?

Should I bite the bullet and get a locksmith to sort it?

Have a look at the “keep” (bit that the latch engages with in the frame). I thought our front door was a gonner until I tightened up the screws on the keep and it’s totally fine.

Actually I did notice that there were two loose screws on the latch on the door, so that was the first thing I tightened but it's not helped

Thanks, will only end up using them if we can’t get a colour elsewhere as the range is huge. Seems to get very good reviews on the pro decorators forums including their satinwood which was going to be Johnstones aquagaurd but will see how they price up and if the odd gallon/quart sizing works out for coverage.

Is it glazed? Sounds like it might need toeing and heeling. If the top of the door is leaning outwards it has ‘dropped’ meaning it’s no longer square. There are glazing packers between the glass and the door - at the bottom corner on the lock side and the top corner on the hinge side. These may need adjusting to re-square up the door. To get to them you need to pull the beading from the inside side of the door. Plenty of guides online to walk you through the process.

I will definitely fuck that up. I think I've nearly sorted it by raising one door and lowering the other. Gonna get a door professional to look at it

I've only tried out some testers but they were great. Just haven't had an opportunity to specify it since they became more available here.

Floor sander hire booked for this weekend. Ibuprofen stockpiled.

#middleagedthread

Get a proper mask for it, as even with the bags it still blows upon some shite.

Don't worry, this will be my third run at it. Ear plugs and mask already got. And knee pad inserts for the overalls. And shit to seal up the door. Friday will be banging down nail heads. In ms_com's office, which is in the eaves, I do not want to do it, but fuck paying someone else to do a slightly better job.

we have a block-paved drive. after 5 years it is looking a bit mouldy/tired, with a few weeds at the edges. i was thinking about pressure washing and sealing it - but youtube says pressure washing can reduce the life of the driveway....

thoughts? experiences? concerns? tyia

thoughts?

Pressure wash.

Of course it will reduce the it's life, but the question is how much? Are you going to become that guy who's pressure washing it every Saturday? You've gone 5yrs without gaf, so my money is on once every 5yrs being fine. There is probably a mild detergent that will help. Also once dry brush in kiln(sp?) dried sand. But make sure it's really dry and use a soft brush - it's easy work, but as soon as there is moisture it takes x10 as long.

We decided not to seal when we had ours done due to the small area of high traffic. I'd rather have the whole thing look a bit faded than have two neat bare tyre wear lines down it.

I need to lay a 3770mm by 1730mm base for an Asgard shed. Would sand, compacted and levelled, then these work?

https://lordsbm.co.uk/lpc00010

And what's the cheapest way to get around 14 of them delivered? I don't think my pizza rack or the other half's Corsa will be up to the job.

Whatever you do will reduce the life. Hypochlorite is an easy option - put it on, leave it and rain will do the work.
Pressure wash can be quicker with a big enough washer.

I’ve not tried the paving slab route but when i looked at (and did) this same thing, those mesh grates that you pour gravel into were an easier option.

I’m doing mine now, push to test respirator does the job as does the big vacuum that comes with the sander.
Went with a Bona revolving jobbie as those drum sanders give me the fear.

The plasticky lacquer on our Iroku is nearly impenetrable and have had to resort to 25grit to cut through it.

I thought the same, but Asgard say it needs to be concrete or pavers. Was your shed the same?

I'd need to check dimensions but yeah, it was an Asgard. Still fine 4 years in

Pressure wash it. Who wants to live forever? It'll probably still be fine when tearful relatives are saying what a nice person you were.

Maybe, but quite possibly not. MOT sub-base, compacted, a couple of inches of concrete, and then some slabs would be my preferred option. Possibly overkill, but why do it twice?

why do it twice?

60 tonnes per grid when empty and 10yr manufacturer guarantee, I'm not really sure why you'd need to do it twice.

How heavy are these Asgard things anyway?

Not technically DIY, but sort of as I'm buying the stuff myself.

We are having engineered wood installed. What glue should I buy?

Fitters have said they don't buy it due to various floor manufacturers warranties. Floor manufacturer doesn't care. So what's best?

I've seen Sika T55 recommended, but it's pretty pricy, looks like the best part of £500 on glue.

Cheers.

Do you have a picture of the hinges.
The horizontal adjustment may also affect compression, which may twist the door

I pressure wash mine then weed and rake out the blocks and brush in som kiln dried sand. Jobs a goodun