Home DIY

Cheers all!

Cut out some more and put a plasterboard overhang. Then skirting to taste.

This method of staining did cross my mind for your chair, it's essentially putting the dark rings left by wet metal on timber all over it, or possibly the other direction of bleaching the hell out of it with oxalic acid.
https://youtu.be/BnSgGVnNwVQ

If you go the new skirting route, you can get taller boards that are recessed to go over existing shorter boards without removing them. Would save a lot of work if you went that way.

https://skirtingboardsdirect.com/product-category/skirting-boards/mdf-cover-skirting-boards/

This works best where you have a reasonable amount of tanin(sp?) in the wood. Otherwise it doesn't door much.

You can add tanin using tea or whatever.

TBH despite everyone's best efforts, I'm really pushing for the same low skirting.

1. It matches the upstairs
   
2. I like it
   
3. It feels in keeping with the 1950s house - not that I'm a slave to period correctness, but given the low ceilings it seems to make sense to have short skirting.
   
   

My plan is to get some fire retardant* spray foam and put that around the pipes. Then I can trim it off with a saw and skim and blend the top section over.

I'm still don't know how much the floor will be raised anyway so unsure of how much needs to be covered.

I've been told to get the plumber to do it, but they suggested concrete - which the Internet tells me can destroy copper... So I'd feel happier diy. Just need to try and do it before my OH gets home late tonight.

*read somewhere that it's less effected by heat

Concrete shouldn't corrode copper. But plaster will.

This is why I've given up doing anything to our house. Even the most simple fucking thing, like moving a rad, turns into this kind of stupid fucking nightmare.

Ah! Maybe it's me mixing it up.

Cheers.

Amen

Until now I haven't wanted to move. Now it seems like the preferable option. Is there a "filter by floor type" option on right move?

Concrete does corrode copper as will plaster but if you are going to go for it just wrap the copper before doing it and it'll be fine.

I need to do a very small shed base over soil (~ 2'x2').

I was just thinking of some sand to level it out and then a few paving slabs over the top. Is that sufficient or should I be using something to bond them in place?

This is how most of the mini-Sheds in the allotment I drive past are done.

Although I think most of them have a couple of (maybe 3?) stacked council pavers, rather than just one. I assume this makes it a more weighty footing and raises it further from the damp ground.

Painting question. I stupidly said we could change the bathroom colour from F&B Stifkey Blue (dark blue) to a much lighter probably colour, Setting Plaster. This will be Leyland Hard Wearing Matt Emulsion colour matched. I've used this paint in the hall and bathroom ceiling and I like it (other suggestions considered).

Ceiling and woodwork is white, lots of cutting in, fireplace, window, 1/2 tiled wall etc.

I was thinking of painting the whole thing white first (same paint as final colour) as I have to re-paint the ceiling anyway and I figure I can get away with being a bit less accurate with the white paint before cutting in with the new lighter colour. Otherwise I feel like I will really struggle to total hide the blue when cutting in the new paint etc.

Is this a bad idea?

Put some sort of barrier in place to stop your expanding foam from encasing the joints. It will mean a void where the push-fit joints are but you should be able to avoid screwing/nailing into that and it will mean when the joints inevitably fail you will be able to get at and replace them more easily. Can probably just use some cardboard to make a little "wall" that will stop the foam spreading that way.

It's a good idea.

Often use a cheaper paint or one with a lot of solids in so it's more opaque.

What's the forum approved satin paint for skirting, architrave and possibly doors? Been using Dulux trade quick dry satinwood but find it a total pain to work with.

"and it will mean when the joints inevitably fail "
those push fit things give me the fear (if encased) just had the pipework done in new bathroom using those new fangled crimp connectors, didn't realise they were a thing but the plumber does on call work for hotels and they do not allow naked flames on site so had all the crimp tools to do it that way.
Did have a solder joint fail on an unvented cylinder the day after install which flooded my hallway a few days before a new engineered floor went down so no joint is 100% secure...

Albany super satin isn't bad, Dulux diamond eggshell* white is a swine, the Albany may be similar to the satinwood (it's been 3+ years since I used it)

Did have a solder joint fail

My two experiences of pipes failing have both been copper Fwiw.

That's very unideal, did you claim there PL to get it fixed?

The price of the crimper and fittings is eye watering.

there was at least a couple of buckets of water down the hallway but the carpet and underlay helped soak it up, rang the plumber and he came and redid the joint.
Expected a knock on the door from downstairs neighbour but it seems the screed had kept the water in the flat, carpet was fucked but it was going a week later.
Have this week boxed in all the radiator pipework in new flat but plumber fitted a single pipe to the tails so we could run the system to test for leaks and also take the chill off while i was working there in Jan/Feb, Will be gutted if i have to start hacking into the fresh plaster if it leaks.

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We want to replace this shoddy kitchen cabinet with a 1000m wide unit that has, say 2 deep soft-close, big drawers that can hold all the big cooking pots and pans and a smaller two drawers similar to what's in the photo for the utensils.

Is there a known good brand/supplier of this stuff that we should look at? Plan is to retain the kitchen top and insert/install the new until thing underneath.

(and before you say "you can just adjust the doors to straighten them" that's not the only issue, the interior of this unit is fucked)

ie.

Needs to be white and boring and cheap to match the rest of the units (and me).

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Have a look at the Hafele website if you want to check out components. If you can get the cab made the hardware is all available from Hafele, they do have a range of ready made drawers too.

Nice view for London, without being a billionare!