Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I don't think that ^ will work, it looks like the hub axle sits entirely within the dropouts and male bolts then thread in from the outside. It might be possible to file down the bolt threads just for the section that'll sit in the dropouts once installed. Not ideal though.

Why would you do this to yourself 😂. Or are they for someone you hate?

I don’t know who sells solid tyres, but I do kind of rate the Tannus Armour insert things as an alternative / half way house. We used to use them on really heavy duty trailers and they all but eliminated punctures.

You’re saying that filing a bit of material of the not-threaded portion of the bolts won’t work? And that is better to file a bit off the threaded section? I guess it would be best to file down the thread section closest to the smooth section?

I had a pair of solid tyres when I was a student, and now decades later I still remember them as the shittest tyres I've ever had.

I'm not a mental. It's not for riding. It's for a, let's call it an art project, for a friend.
They want to have a bike stood upright without added visible clamps holding it up.
Needs to be 650b / 27.5 for the bike they're using.

We had solid tyres on two ancient adult fixed trikes we had as kids. Getting them sideways down the driveway was the fucking best.

I’ve filed dropouts before. If you’re careful it should be fine.

That said, being that those blb hubs have female axles and the bolt is what sits in the dropout, I’d probably have a go at modding the bolts as they are the easiest and cheapest thing to replace.

The photos I found online show a fully threaded bolt, I’d start by knocking down the height of the threads. If you can get it to fit by doing that you’ll have lost very little if any strength. If you have to remove material from the actual diameter of the bolt then go slow and test foot often so you don’t take too much off.

I’d flatten an area wider than is really needed to make installation a bit easier. The bolts are plenty long so there should still be tons of full height threads to engage deeper into the axle.

Mounting the bolt in a lathe would be the best way to ensure you take an even amount of all the way around but failing that, a drill can be a decent stand in, just be careful not to damage the threads if you have to hold them in the chuck because the head is too large.

All sounds like something I’d love to try but ultimately am too scared and ill-equipped to do :(

Selling the wheels if anyone wants them…

I'll do this.

Bolt into chuck of a power drill, file in vice, safety glasses and gloves on and turbo file away!

I just replaced bearings on a fulcrum front wheel last week so can confirm that's the right bearing. I got them from here for slightly cheaper, but not much https://www.wychbearings.co.uk/MR-18307-LLB-ABEC5-Enduro.html

1. 18mm internal.
   
   

Are you setting the preload while the the axle is tight with the Hel in the park?

Sorry, I don't understand. Could you rephrase?

The axle is inserted from the NDS, as I recall. There are some little silver "washers" that go on after the bearings and before the axle. Grease the axle lightly, slide in all the way and then use the preload cap on the drive side and I just tightened it hand tight, and then did up the little hex grub screw. Then it's end caps pushed on to the axle on each side (and finally disc brake rotor in my case).

Could you sorry ‘they’ just fill some normal tyres with this?
https://www.mbfg.co.uk/foam-hard.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwr82iBhCuARIsAO0EAZyOMCtf_P89dgjE3ojNu6HQsIlW0b3UkPIb_V4yhvG3IbbbpmjAPHsaAp2_EALw_wcB

I fitted a Conti TLR to Vision Metron 40 with just a standard butyl tube.

As you can see from the photos, one side of the tyre sits closer to the edge of the rim than the other side.

This leave bulging to one area of the tyre.

What am I doing wrong here?

2 Attachments

Soapy water and pump until it seats.

If not, bounce it on the ground like a ball.

Definitely not me. Like I would give two fucks about how to mount a bike to a floor for art and even if I did, I'd hardly bother being secretive about it. Anyway, decent shout, so I've passed the idea on.

What am I doing wrong here?

Using Conti

oooh it's been a while.

Use the things on the ends of your arms, I think they're called hands, to pull the tyre over. If that doesn't work you can add more air and it should seat properly, eventually.

Did you end up trying this out? I've wondered the same thing but not had time to test it out

"Yeah we talked about that but I think the foam would just break down over time and not really be strong enough. We also thought about filling them with resin"

Cheers. I've an account at Simply Bearings so I've used those guys.

Got 4 so I can do the rear if/when it goes to shit.

I was gonna ask if the rear was definitely the same size, and then remembered that the rear was stolen off the bike before I moved out of London. Aaah, good old London! 😉

Ah, shit I didn't even check, just assumed. IIRC the guy working on one on youtube said they were the same but his were slightly different anyway. Oh well, spare fronts if they don't fit.

Thinking about adding brakes to my All City Dropout, the fork has the studs but on the rear it's just the mounts and I don't have the studs.

From their documentation, they say they "spec the Fly Bikes studs" for the Dropout, but a bit unsure which one they refer to.
(https://allcitycycles.com/images/uploads/3636_ACT_Dropout_Inst_F.pdf)

So any help regarding BMX studs for the All City Dropout would really be appreciated!

I haven't ridden my CX bike in about 2 years, but I've slowly been accumulating parts to replace the destroyed drivetrain.

I have bought:

• SRAM RIVAL1 RD (1x11)
  
• SRAM 11sp cassette
  
• 1x chainring
  
  

However, I was just looking at fitting them and suddenly realised that my current shifters are SRAM RIVAL 10sp (hydraulic). In for a penny, in for a pound, it looks like I now need new shifters...

PX has a sale on, are these the shifters I need? The PX site seems to suggest that these are just the shifters/brake levers, but Wiggle seems to sell them along with brake callipers: SRAM RIVAL 1 and SRAM RIVAL 22. Are the new 11 speed shifters (from planet-x) compatible with my existing 10sp Rival calipers?

Make sure to use thread lock on the new pulley wheel bolts. They will otherwise unscrew and then the chain will get all stroppy and trash the rear derailleur. Ask me how I know...