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how much of an issue is this really
not an issue. you'd only be touching the max if everything was on full blast all at once. I suspect it'll never happen. My oven is similarly rated and just running off a plug. Never had a problem, never tripped the fuse.
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The "Required Fuse" entry on the datasheet is what you need to look at. That's saying 16 A, and so you will need that wired in directly. There are definitely ovens made that go into 13A sockets (they'll be sold with a plug on the flex, rather than a bare end) but you're right that they probably won't do pyrolytic cleaning.
duncs
hamrack
@rogan
endless appliance woes on the oven front for me.
£125 for an engineer to say our oven basiaclly isnt repairable.
£800 new oven that they wouldnt install because the old oven and hob were wired into the dedicated block
£90 to an electrician who has discovered that the 'oven' labelling on the consumer unit goes nowhere, only the hob labelled block is actually wired up through to the kitchen.
minimum £200+ quote to wire it up, plus decorating repair work. The CU is in the garage at the front, the kitchen is on the first floor at the back, so i imagine this is a significant problem.
The electrician said that the oven needs to be max 13amp to not required new wiring, my calculations suggest that the oven we had delivered requires 13.3.. how much of an issue is this really? is it feasible to make it work? the oven ordered has pyrolytic cleaning which is I guess why it consumes more power and could be a problem if the hob thats also wired to the same spur was running but we would never do this?
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