Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

A couple of caveats: 1) it's a non-boost chainset, and 2) the rear end of the front mech doesn't have much clearance for the chainstay. This latter factor is with 40/28 rings, and it could go a little lower, but might be something to consider/experiment with for you and your frames.

Overhauling a rear hub (Deore FH M590) and the both sides cones are pitted so trying to find correct replacements. SJSCycles have a left hand lock nut unit (for £6.99, ouch) but right hand is discontinued, as is the complete hub axle assembly which would include both.

What makes a cone compatible? Axle diameter, thread pitch ... are there other factors which will determine whether I can use another cone? Or is the compatability with the dustcaps / seals etc they've included in that "lock nut unit"?

Thanks a million

I think I would try and get my hands on a new or used in good condition complete hub and plunder the bits I needed

Something up with the grrl's front wheel. Bearings gone maybe?

Basically the bearing pre-load thinge (ring that tightens down on the bearings and is then locked with an allen key), well, when it's set to remove side-to -side play and the wheel spins ok... as soon as there's load on the wheel it squeals and then stops.

I had to back the lockring way off in order for the wheel to spin freely, to the point there was quite a large amount of side to side play and the braking was noisy. Not a great start to a 400k in Wessex.

I can't even remember what wheels they are - "Fulcrum", she reminds me. I'll be able to get some pics of the mess later but anyone seen this kind of thing wanna have a stab at the issue?

Also, how to pull apart cheap Fulcrums to swap bearings? I may have spare bearings for these but I'll need to see how to pull them apart.

Odd. Fulcrum with that preload ring tend to have cartridge bearings, and they disassemble easily enough (usually: use cone spanners on lock nuts, remove preload nut, remove cone/nut with a bearing seat, whack the axle out with a mallet). Keep the old bearings and use them to press in the new bearings, just don’t forget to reinsert axle if it’s a stepped axle fitted between the bearings.

Yeah, they're cartridge.

I was on the roadside so only tried fully undoing the lockring, didn't note any spanner flats, I'll have a look when we unpack the carnage.

I'll only replace the bearings if I already have the spares for it. If not, I'm sending the missus down to the LBS with it.

Until c19, most small bike shops could get similar good deals on tiagra, 105 and Ultegra groups. Often could do same price as Uk online, but including bb and cabling. But not anymore.

Yeah.
It's a terrible time.

I can't see anything out of place.

The NDS axle looks to have a lip on it to stop it moving right through the bearings but I can't see how the lockring thing comes off (other than by force).

Oh maybe the NDS side is an axle cap and just pops off. The might explain the lip.

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Ah, both lips at each end of the axle are end caps. Once they're both out, you can fully wind off the lockring and then push the axle through. The NDS side has the axle lip so push from the drive side where the lockring was removed from.

S&S bearings? Never heard of them.

61903-2RS

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Ok, so that bearing code should be for 17x30x7mm bearings:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p55072/W619032RSR-Quality-Budget-Stainless-Steel-Rubber-Sealed-Thin-Section-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-17x30x7mm/product_info.html

But my calipers measure ~17.5mm internal and Simply Bearings suggest - If your bearing has the code 6903/61903 on the races and/or seals but has an 18mm bore, then you may need a [MR183072RS] which would be one of these:

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p185962/ENDURO-MR183072RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-18x30x7mm/product_info.html

What would Jesus do?

This is what Jesus would do:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p6243/SKF-619032RS1-Rubber-Sealed-Thin-Section-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-17x30x7mm/product_info.html

Then again, my LBS charge £25 for a front wheel hub service which seems to include bearing "hub will be dismantled and cleaned along with the cone nuts and axle. Bearings will be cleaned or replaced. The hub will be reassembled with fresh grease." so it does make me wonder why I would bother doing it myself, given it'll cost me £35 in bearings, other than the fact it's half done, I just don't have the right bearings for it.

Cheaper bearings?

What diameter is the axle/nut surface that makes contact with the inner race?

Cheaper bearings?

Service doesn’t usually include cost of parts.

Their service says it does but likely cheap ones. I thought about measuring that instead when I grabbed the axle again but I've already taken batts out of my calipers :S

Also, pissing about with their search brings up these which appear to be the same for a lot less
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20000041/ENDURO-69032RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-17x30x7mm/product_info.html

17,98mm on my calipers for the bearing surface

which makes me think they are the 18mm variety and wonder why they label different bearings with the same code

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p185962/ENDURO-MR183072RS-Rubber-Sealed-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-18x30x7mm/product_info.html

£9ea though which would make me doing it worthwhile, just.

That'll almost certainly just include loose ball bearings.

This makes me feel better about doing it myself. I did tell my missus to just fuck it off to the LBS already but I'm a curious cat and just had to see inside the wheel...

Also, it's going back to gravel mode, so there's no rush on these road wheels.

Check the axle for wear.

Those threads are prone to wearing out given how fine they are.

Also remove the disc rotor and check if the bearings still sit snug. The hub shell could be flared if you could push out the bearings with little to no resistance, which I have personally attended to.

There was wiggle or someone else selling stuff under cost price. We are just back to it, sadly

Axle looks ok, as do the bearing fit, but I guess I'll find out more when I hammer them out.

The bearings are rough, so it wouldn't surprise me if I found a bunch of metal shavings in one or both and that might've been the cause of the drag.

I'll stick new bearings in and see what happens, if it's still shit, it'll get donated/recycled and I'll find a new wheel for the bike.

Wiggle gets things at wholesale prices from the manufacturer, I’d imagine, so their cost is below shops’ cost. Retail shops can’t compete with that.

It's worse than that. Many online shops get into a frame mftr to get some full bikes made, which allows them access to shimano /sram full oe pricing (container load of tourney plastic fantastic please every month for 2 years) but it also gets them into the mftr, who will be making frames and sometimes assembling them for many other "brands", some of those brands will be on the sour side of a shipping container of tourney every month for 2 years, and they need out of some or all of it. Sometimes are above their price, sometimes below, sometimes way way below depending on how soon various tax/duties /storage fees are due. Thats where a lot of the way cheap priced stuff comes from. Hence why is in misc plastic bags from larger containers.
Uk retail physical shops are often getting shimano blue box retail and can sometimes with distributor deal help, get the price down inc full uk vat to almost competitive with the guys doing the above.
Been happening for decades, it's an issue and not an issue.
We have also sinxe the dawn of time been buying deal prices from online retailers and then retailing ourselves as occasionally the price inc vat is lower than uk trade price by enough to be worthwhile

Other than Tannus, does anyone else do solid "airless" tyres?

Further to that, anything in 650B / 27.5?

I’ve ran into a problem with a front track hub when trying to install the wheel onto my bike.

The 10mm bolt diameter of the BLB king hub is a bit too wide to fit into the fork drop outs, what’s the best course of action here? File the drop outs? Can the the 10mm bolts be swapped for 9mm bolts?

If they're closer to 3/8" than 9mm (the dropout size) I'd try taking some material off the unthreaded portion of the bolt.
I wouldn't like to file dropouts on a fork and it doesn't look like the axle can be swapped for something smaller on that hub

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I’ve ran into a problem with a front track hub when trying to install the wheel onto my bike.

The 10mm bolt diameter of the BLB king hub is a bit too wide to fit into the fork drop outs, what’s the best course of action here? File the drop outs? Can the the 10mm bolts be swapped for 9mm bolts?

TLDR