Home DIY

Most 115mm corded angle grinders use the same nut and blade fitting ID so pretty interchangeable.
Have two, a cheapo £30 cable job that I've had 10 years, changed the joke 2m cable for a 10m industrial quality cable and use high quality blades, only gets occasional use, but paid for itself on day 1.
Have a milwaukee brushless m18 battery job, more like £100-135 something like that? Sounds like a lot, but again paid for itself on day 1 doing a job for a customer removing a few dozen mangled bikes and abandoned locks at normal charge out rate. Been using it on all sort of masonry jobs, batteries last surprisingly long and its much easier to control without it stalling/running away like the mains powered job does (1600w, but shows the difference between high amp stall capacity of a quality battery tool vs cheap mains).

Screwfix/b+Q own brand stuff is fine for most folks DIY needs in the world of angle grinders. Just buy good blades and buy some £££ goggles that properly fit, those £2 goggles... your eyesight is worth more than that.

I just buy the cheap ones if im drilling metal, tried the expensive and they never lasted that much longer for the money. Cooling them ive found helps loads.

Cheers. I've picked up a cheap DeWalt corded one for £40 although it may well be one of those things that once you get it you realise how much you use it and I'll end up with a cordless one at some point in the future.

Agree about the eyes, I've got some Bolle goggles that should be fine.

I just need something that has vague durability.
Something like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112243185380

having stripped a couple of wallpapered walls back to bare plaster what is the usual way of dealing with the sticky residue of old wallpaper paste?
is there some magic solution?

I've not used it before but I think DIF from Zinsser will do it :-

https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinsser-dif-wallpaper-stripper-concentrate-1ltr/8421J?tc=PB4&ds_rl=1243321&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAjw9J2iBhBPEiwAErwpeacXtdMezUYlT4-0zRVmkQ7qVTw-sJparthuE5pPUSXHmRXU_vWc6BoCns0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks. Will investigate that, zinniser stuff is usually good.

There seem to be a few home made recipes most of which include warm water, washing up liquid, vinegar etc. Sugar soap might be an option too. I have heard that DIF is good for wallpaper removal so I've assumed it will handle the glue too.

Soften with wallpaper steamer, wipe off. Worked for us.

Damp sponge and a scraper?

Always just used a steamer and scraped it.

DIF good at softening the adhesive for removing wallpaper, not fantastic at actually getting it off the wall - it tending to soften it and smear it around, We found

-> paper tiger
-> DIF spray twice
-> warm sugar soapy water and scrape off excess glue, or a quick blast again with the steamer
-> sand

Gave best results, having done 3 floors worth of wall. I’d imagine it is dependent on adhesive used.

cutting compound helps a lot too drilling metals, especially stainless, similar to
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cutting-fluids/0691347

just built a standing desk for completed new office. My jointer is having issues so had joints I wasn't happy with so tried to rout a 'V' joint which went wrong!
I ended up cutting out a slot and gluing some ebony in.
Its not perfect but I'm happy

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Hiya,

Apologies- I owe some thanks for previous advice here. I managed to fix cement mixer! Folks are welcome to borrow! HMU.

I’m hoping to find some one with a pillar drill for a cast iron balustrade I’m fixing.. I need to re-tap a hole for a bolt for it to hang from. Vice and hand held drill is not getting me there..

Thanks folks.

Looks great!

Having a go at restoring an old chair. Planning to sand it all back, and then maybe stain it before refinishing.
Couple of quick questions - anything I need to do on the holes from some kind insect on the leg? And I reckon the hinges will clean up quite nicely with a steel wool and some polish. And would you seal the metal hinges with something to protect it?

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Somehow reminds me of vintage ercol. The woodworm looks fresh so something that says it'll kill it. Personally I'd edge away from sanding to sand back to fresh wood it's well oxidize and aged. White sprit reverses wax finish and metholated spirit reverses french polish an experiment with each of those with a scrub on the medium wire wool would clean it up. If that provides no joy the next chemicals up are ... The eco paint strippers

Agree, don’t make it look new by sanding it back! I also wouldn’t protect the brass, lacquered brass always looks worse than aged/natural brass IMHO and I have more than once bought cheap lacquered brass things and stripped and aged them with various concoctions.

Good project, good luck - enjoy

Cheers @t.o. & @bluehuw. I did fancy sanding it so made a start this afternoon before seeing this, which may be the wrong decision, but was it a bit rough in quite a few places.
So you’d completely leave the brass as is?
Good shout on the woodworm thing. Shame the holes will still be there but they’re at the back so won’t be visible

Think it will need some kind of stain. Got a plan for cushions too. This pic was the inspiration for doing it

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That's the jobbie ... The chair won't mind, this is 1933 ercol - which searching vintage ercol obvs turns up the the new old

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Thanks for finding that! Just tried to find it searching 1933 ercol but no luck. What’s the model called? Mine is slightly different (curved armrest, different cross bar at the front and a few other bits)

Personally I would clean the brass but not overly clean it. Probably clean with washing up liquid and a scrubbing brush, and then carefully “shine” some bits of it gently with cif between it and my fingers, rinsing it until I was happy it looked a bit shiny but mainly aged.

Here are some sash window handles I took from lacquered (imho garish) brass to overly aged, and then polished up a little.

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It's from the ercol website - even that has many gaps to ranges