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• #252
glossy version of this fella: https://www.fairwheelbikes.com/fair-wheel-kalloy-uno-stealth-stem.html perhaps?
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• #253
You can get the Deda in matte with a bit of gloss on the RS Ltd version, but these ones are quite expensive.
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• #254
I have seen those I'm pretty sure they're the standard even cheaper al750 with the graphics removed which is a really easy job. Its anodized and not glossy glossy although it is shinier than the one below. Unos seem unbeatable for the money though. Probably gonna be a superleggero
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• #255
What are the dimensions of Simworks , new bike incoming and it may work?
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• #256
It would look better with hoods and cables and it did look more balanced when i put the seatpost and saddle next to it. Another problem with it i realised after running the tape over it yesterday is a taller stem fits like a shorter stem🤦🏻♂️ so whilst the bar height is the same as my Genesis the extra 30mm of stack shortens the reach by about 15mm. I can ride a regular stack slammed on this especially as the superleggero has a little less rise. I find my Genesis setup really comfortable but I'm mostly riding it with a fully loaded backpack so prefer not to ride too head down. Its not a flexibility issue and i won't be commuting on this so can get away with a slightly more aggressive position.
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• #257
It's this one 100mm - 15° 72mm stack
Although as mentioned above the extra 30mm stack shortens the reach by about 15mm. Geometry eh 🙄 if you wanted it i could do it for like £80 if you were keen ? These are £180
https://freshtripe.co.uk/simworks-anna-lee-stem-75/ -
• #258
It’s the Al7050 Uno without graphics, not ones with them removed. Slight difference and cost more money to order them that way from Kalloy stupidly enough.
There are shinny versions of the Uno available, I had one on my spooky.
It’s also Tester approved.
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• #259
The Simworks is list in classifieds now if your interested. I'm asking half rrp but need it gone we'll see
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/385802/#comment16950189 -
• #260
Pmd
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• #261
The superleggero/superleggera combo is on. Looks alright i think i just need to get a black stem shim.
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• #262
Stem looks rad!
And this frame so exceptional. I saw one up on Box Hill a decade or so ago and have never forgotten it. Excited for you to get this rolling.
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• #263
The Deda stem you have is the best fitting for 1” headsets by far. I’ve used a few and apart from Simworks who all seem to be that slightly bit too narrow for 1” threadless, this is definitely the best. Got about five of these stems and they all get used on my 1” CKs.. overall looks amazing mate, one of the best classic frame sets available worldwide IMO. T
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• #264
Thanks both I'm going to use this stem. Slammed is 2cm lower than my usual bar height so I'm going to leave that when i cut it and see how go. It does look best slammed. I'd love a 1in CK for this and i look regularly but they never seem to come up. Just waiting for my seatpost to arrive from Hungary so might a few weeks. Once I've got that i won't be wasting any time getting this fully built.
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• #265
Losing the sim works was the right choice. It’s a difficult balance getting modern lightweight components to work on classic steel frames .. especially chromed & lugged ones. But don’t cut the steerer too short in search of a slammed look and ruin your back. I think 0 degree stems can look OK on road bikes with level top tubes ..
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• #266
I've ordered a pack of 1in x 1cm spacers and I'm going to leave myself 2cm wiggle room on the first cut and give it a couple of weeks each at +2cm, +1 cm then slammed as i don't want to rush chopping the steerer right down. I'd rather ride around with a chimney on top for a few weeks than risk going too low and regretting it. Just playing around with hood position and I'll start with the stem spacers when they arrive in a few days. The levers look high but feel comfortable but maybe that's because the bars are lower than I'm used to.
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• #267
Definitely don’t go straight to slammed, err on the side of caution.
Let me know how get on with seatpost. Tried putting mine on today and was incredibly tight. I took it out as didn’t want to force it. Never had such a tough time trying to fit a seatpost.
Also the cable stops were mismatched ( one black , one silver).
Have emailed them about these and the seatpost. Frustrating -
• #268
Thats annoying my cable stops match but haven't tried a seatpost yet but I'll take the one out of the beater and check it out. Otherwise i hope my new post has plenty of lacquer on it if i have to get the wet and dry out as I'd rather go at the post than the frame. Hopefully you get this sorted quickly. I definitely won't fully slam it as I'm in my mid 40's and hope to keep this a long time and my flexibility if going the same direction as everything else. The Simworks was slightly too tall though and not just in appearance.
EDIT: just checked and a 27.2 is no way going in there mine is really tight as well i only managed to get the tip in couple 1-2cm and put a couple of deep scratches into the post. I'm glad i tried it with a cheap alu post first 😕. My seatpost is going to be another couple of weeks so let me know how you get on. @PhilDAS is this your area of expertise? I'm going to give it a light rub and a clean today to see if it helps. I bet my BB won't go straight in either
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• #269
Most new frames need a reaming although this is something that should have been done at the factory.
Assuming the tube is butted and there's enough thickness at the top, you can have it reamed out with an adjustable hand reamer very easily but I'd want the go ahead from Colnago before doing it. -
• #270
And get some rust protection inside there sooner rather than later. Frame saver doesn't seem to be really available any more.
We have started using cavity wax spray at work (I work with a frame builder) which is inexpensive and designed for this job specifically. -
• #271
I love this paintjob so much, good to see how carefully all the parts are picked for it:)
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• #272
Cheers I'll get some wax spray this week. The fit was so tight on my first try i thought it would need loads of work but after a quick finger blast with some coarse paper i managed to get a post into that depth. It was tight still but I'm confident now with the right tools this actually won't take much 🤞
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• #273
Cheers I'm glad i waited in the end for this paint job and there's some nice extra details like the stencilling down the back of the seat tube even though it'll be mostly hidden by the rear wheel and some gold inside some of the Colnago clubs around the lugs and above the brake bridge although I'm pretty sure this sticker is meant to go on after the clear coat? It'll be hidden by the chainset but still
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• #274
The seatpost arrived today a few weeks earlier than expected which is good just a shame i can't fit it in the frame until I get that sorted. Looks nice but the height markings up the back are a bit more prominent than i'd like. I spoke to my engineer father in law today who's going to make me a tool so hopefully by the weekend where i can get helped out and emasculated at the same time. Quote of the day was the problem with your generation with your fancy phones and your TikTok is no one can actually fucking do anything proper anymore. I kind of see the point he's try to so subtly trying make but I'm 44 and don't even use TikTok. Can everyone else on here just go out to their garage complete with lathe, pillar drill, hundreds of tools and drawers of various types of metal and wood just knock up a reaming tool in a matter of minutes?
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• #275
No, I can’t do the lathe etc but there’s plenty on here who do. The counts.
I wonder if you build it with the Simworks stem it might look better proportioned once it’s all together?
With the cranks/hoods/rd/etc.. on I doubt it will look so top heavy.