I am a frame builder AMA

It wets out a little more than lower percentage silver which can mean it's a little harder to build up as it goes quite runny but may not be a problem with a small torch as it won't be super hot.
We use 30% for main tube joints at work and 55% for bosses and brazeons

We use 30% for main tube joints at work and 55% for bosses and brazeons

You're working as a framebuilder now? How did I miss this?

I did the brake mounts with those exact rods, I'm now using a 39% rod for everything, lugs, braze-ons, sleeve type joints.

Not quite. I'm working for one but I'm not building myself for work

With 142mm OLD, is the disc rotor spaced 52mm from the centreline?

I'm flipping a disc hub to mount a sprocket and want to check the chainline.

TIA!

Yes! Oh wait. I think so yes.

Thanks! Oh wait. I think. :)

I was directed to your thread by Rodolfo (who was kind enough to measure his chainline) and have been trying to glean details, but you two are both 135mm and this will be my first 142mm frame.

Either way, I'm now pretty sure I'll be within shimming distance of a good chainline.

Well I don't think there is a difference. At least for a hope Evo 4 hub there isn't a difference between the 135 and 142mm as it is the same hub. So imagine it's the same for most hubs as brakes are placed the same. No?
This guy confirmed 52mm line on IG

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That's great, thanks.

At least for a hope Evo 4 hub there isn't a difference between the 135 and 142mm as it is the same hub. So imagine it's the same for most hubs as brakes are placed the same. No?

Yes. The only difference between 135mm and 142mm is the width of the end caps, to give the extra 3mm in hub axle length that slots into the recess in the rear dropouts. Apart from that they're the same.

Anybody know @Biggles567 (aka Max) irl?
If so, could you ask him to check his messages on here please.
Many thanks.
J

I messed up cutting the top of my seattube down and now can’t quite get it level. It’ll be under a collar but I’d like it to be right. There’s plenty left but I don’t want to keep filing in vain. What’s my best option - would a bike shop be able to do this? Or a framebuilder with a belt sander or something. Any suggestions in London? Thanks! :)

Have you got a tube clamp or maybe a fork steerer cutting guide you can use as a file guide?

Sadly only basic hand tools

Even wrapping masking tape around should give you quite a good guide to follow by eye.

Even wrapping masking tape around should give you quite a good guide to follow by eye.

This. It's the only way I can cut or file in a straight line!

Only other thing would be if it's a 28.6mm seattube and there's room, stick an old 1 1/8" stem around it and file down to that.

Question: How do you pick what mech hanger to use? Do you just look at a chart and think what would work well and then try and pick something incredibly obscure to make everyone else's life really difficult down the line (it's what I'm guessing bike mfrs do) or is it predicated by the dropouts that you're using and you just go with the flow?

Didn't really want to start a thread just to ask this and figured this seems like the best place.

I don't really know a whole lot about steel frame fabrication other than steel can be repaired quite easily.

So my question is this: Say I hypothetically have a very nice steel frame with 135 qr disc drop outs, if I really really wanted to, would it be possible to convert the frame to 142 thru axle drop outs?

Is it feasible? Would it require what would effectively be a whole new rear end? Seat stays and chain stays would need replaced to?

Anyone done this before?

Def feasible!
Does it make sense? No
Will it be cheap? Probably not

You probably want to redo the disc brake tabs as well as alignment might be tricky to match and if you want flat mount you'd probably need to redo the rear triangle

Def feasible!

Right, that's good!

Does it make sense? No
Will it be cheap? Probably not

Yes, I completely accept that it's hard to really see any reason to actually do it since it would be very uneconomical. I just wanted to know if it would be possible but I realise that, if seat and chain stay were also replaced, it would probably be approaching the cost of what having a whole new frame made would be.

Of course, this is all just hypothetical. Only an idiot would seriously consider it, right? :)

edit - yeah part of the thought included switching to flat mount too

Well I have one case of dropout only replacement in the pipeline for myself and another one for a fellow forumger where I am replacing the entire rear triangle and making the back end detachable

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where I am replacing the entire rear triangle

Well thats all the encouragement I need!

I do realise though that it would be completely unnecessary for me to do anything to it at all.
The only reason really would be so that I could swap in my wheels from other bikes and just future proofing it really. It would also open up the possibility to make space for tyres over 30c.
But going to all that bother over just having a frame built does seem silly.
Theres also the thought that its might sort of be sacrilege to mess with the frame in anyway.

Ha, I need to see this detachable rear end bike when it finished!

I swap wheels by adding different end caps

lol yeah I was going to put in brackets that I know I could do this. Although I think the end caps for the wheels I'd want to swap in the most are 12*135 rather than qr 135.
I'll check.

Ok. Any person with a lathe can mak you custom end caps if it really is necessary. That will surely be cheaper than all other solutions regarding a torch