Home DIY

Anyone like to suggest a good way to repaint a kitchen ceiling?
Two problems:

1. It’s a bit grimy from cooking vapours - the usual stuff, frying fat etc, nothing that’s got so bad that it’s 3D, fortunately.
   
2. I’ve got a neck issue that makes looking and reaching up for more than a few seconds is rather uncomfortable. I reckon I can use an extended roller to apply the paint, no problem, but it’s getting it properly cleaned first that’s going to be the challenge. The ceiling is about 2.3m above the floor.
   

Anyone got any idea on how to remove a lock cylinder from a door if you don't have the key to move the cam (the door is permanently unlocked)? I could call a locksmith but surely this isn't so uncommon that it's impossible to do.

Just the cylinder? There's often a cover ring that unscrews or can you remove the whole lock from the edge of the door - usually a couple of screws holding a plate there. Pics might help some proper cat burglar answer.

I've taken all the screws out but I think the cam is slightly engaged which means the cylinder won't slide out (it's loose though).

You don't have a pick set? Hmmpf.

Do you need to save it? If not I'd already be smashing it out with a hammer or something. :)

The blanks for the keys are about 150 euros each apparently so even I could get it out safely, I'd be lobbing it into the bin. More concerned about damaging the door than the cylinder.

Hammer carefully :)

You could also drill the barrel out - no harm to door if you control yourself.

Pay someone else to clean it and paint it

I think the cam is slightly engaged which means the cylinder won't slide out

That's a design feature. Think of the fun you could have swapping locks in unlocked doors otherwise.

I don’t disagree. But. There has to be some way to get the bastard out.

I doubt I could find anyone who would be interested in doing just that and no other jobs.

they may be too shallow to actually fit my speakers.

Can you attach the speakers to the wall behind so it doesn't matter?

If you look for a handyman rather than a decorator then you'd probably find someone.

I could. Would likely have to put the hifi somewhere on that wall too. I don't like the look of wall-mounted speakers but it could be the way to go.

I was thinking more of on the shelves but secured to the wall to keep them safe.

A pick set can be had for ~£20 or so on Amazon. Watch a few YouTube videos and crack on, and you’ll never pay a locksmith ever again.

On the subject of hiding wires for speakers... if you have an eARC HDMI enabled TV and a latest gen Apple TV you can use two HomePods or HomePod minis as wireless stereo speakers, which will be better than most sound bars and only require power cables.

oooh. this is good to know. Presuming eARC HDMI enabled TV could be eARC HDMI enabled projector?

I guess so! If I had know that earlier I prob would have skipped my Beam and surrounds and just got dual HomePod mini.
Fewer wires is always a winner IMO.

I've been given a cheaper plumbing quote if I chase the channels myself (saving of £350). I've never actually done this before, but am comfortable to do it.

How hard and how long will it be:

job

1. Cut 0.5m channel to an as yet unknown depth through concrete floor
   
2. Drill hole at the bottom of the same floor to go through brick.
   
3. Cut 1.m channel (unknown depth) through concrete floor
   
   

I have
° A 4" or 5" angle grinder with a dinmond disk
° A 2.7kg SDS (but no chisel yet)
° A mix of new manual masonry chisels

I kinda begrudge that we're paying +£1k to have part of a wall removed that I'm sure we could do. But in that case we are really paying for the "oh shit everyone was wrong and you do need a lintel to stop the 1st floor falling down", rather than the work.

What are the risks of me cutting into the floor? Going through the dpm? Or it taking too long?

Cheers.

Until you reveal the depth of the chases ....

Looking at this one: https://www.richersounds.com/xgimi-horizon-pro.html
Mixed reviews in a couple of places but very good ones elsewhere and video I've seen of it operating looks like it fits use case well

Deep enough to lay 15mm? hot water pipes. I assumed they're lagged or something so what like an inch?

There will be self levelling and a wood floor layed ontop.

Suggest you measure the diameter of the split foamed lengths of insulation,
might be closer to 40mm?
Also, I think that building regs call for 'protection' of infloor copper pipes.
A length of 40mm interior waste pipe might suffice.

If you can get yourself close enough to the ceiling while lying down?