Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Riding recently noticed that the brake pads on my disc brakes were getting stuck (not retracting smoothly) and being noisy. Thought time for a change. Anyway, realised that its because the pads are really lipped. Upon further investigation, I realised that my brakes have extra spacers below them which elevate's the brake from the rotor a bit, thus the pads lipping.

So took the spacers out, and noticed that the 'tab' on the disc pad was fouling the disc brake mount (part of the frame - see example on stock photo), which I'm guessing is why the previous owner had put the extra spacers in!

Solution seemed to be to just cut the end of the tab off (see photo). I can't see any reason why this would be a bad thing, It'd only be the end. Any reason not too trim a few mill off with a hacksaw?

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Those aren't spyre pads.

Or if that's not your bike and you have bb7s or juicy's then you can live without the tab, just makes it easier to install and remove them, although if you have bb7s or juicy's you should have conical washers between the as adapter and the brake.

Yeah that's just a stock image showing the mount.

BB7s with the conical washers, but an extra one underneath too that I've removed now. (Pads sit on the rotor evenly now).

Only need to cut that end 'knob' off, so still some tab to remove. Avid say theyre extra long anyway.

Just checking they don't serve some purpose beyond removal that I don't know about.

I can only need to tak

Cut the fucker off, if you end up struggling to get them out you can remove the little springy retainer bits on the top of the caliper to make it easier.

BB7s are supposed to have washers on the top and the bottom of the adaptor.

Incorrect rotor size perhaps?

I probably should have been a bit clearer, they have the washers above and below, but an extra washer below the bottom conical ones, similar size to what you get behind caliper brakes. (So a total of 5 big washers per bolt, instead of the 4 you'd expect).

They don't appear on any of the BB7 images either. I reckon original owner added them for pad tab clearance.

BB7s with the conical washers, but an extra one underneath too that I've removed now.

Think he's got the washers right now, BB7s are quite chonky, so probably just the last owner going for the easier fix at the time that wasn't really a fix.

I've always had to cut the tab (or at least a bit of it) off on bb7s when running them on a +0mm adapter, once you go to a +20mm it'll fit.

Actually the official SRAM ones are bent and I've had to straighten them out on a few things.

Stupid SRAM.

Fucking SRAM.

Asking for a mother-to-be: what’s the least expensive, good quality motor assist fitable on a Dutch style cargo bike, for urban commuting and shopping ? I’m putting in highly discounted labour because of additional context, but have limited e-bike expertise.

Preliminary research suggests Bafang mid motor and rear rack battery for £400, assuming it doesn’t need the throttle and can be limited to 25km/h somehow. Is that reasonable or buying problems down the line with the motor etc?

We used and abused a bafang mid drive on a heavily loaded big dummy and it lasted admirably, currently fucked but it got a lot of use on a very heavy bike and is repairable but it's not been needed as much of late so is sat indefinitely awaiting some kind of new gear.

I've always had to cut the tab

Do you put a blob of nail polish or something on the cut so it doesn't go rusty or anything?

I've made the cut, fits lovely now and braking significantly improved.

I've noticed some play in the headset of a bike I've just put together and can't place it with certainty. The play is in the lower part, i.e the bottom bearing area and doesn't go away with increased load from the top nut.

There doesn't appear to be a race on the fork - is there always one or is there a direct mount type system?

the bearing itself feels smooth but maybe has a minor amount of play (less than I can feel when the fork is in place, however) - is this normal?

Should I purchase new bearings, a race, or will I need a whole new headset?

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you're (at least) missing the crown race, yes. I assume this is the headset you're using?

It came with the f+f so not totally sure, but looks like a match yeah.

So, crown race and something else?

Edit: the upper cap is rounded unlike that one so probably this

You need a 36° 1 1/8" crown race.

Is there a list of calipers that are supposed to have washers on and how many etc? I'm never sure if some of them are just bodges, or if they're by design...

Avid have (concave/vex) washers nothing else does.

Maybe there's some non avid Stuff that uses the washer system but they've probably patented it.

Under the caliper it's pretty much just avids so bb5s, bb7 and juicy's, they're from when mounts weren't always as straight as they should be, although now discs are on all the cheap bikes maybe they need to make a comeback. You'll get washers above other calipers if using a post mount adapter for a bigger rotor. There's generally a concave and convex one above and below and a regular washer under the bolt head.

As the orhers have said, it's pretty much Avid. The washers do play a role in getting the caliper and rotor lined up, so for as long as the washers are installed correctly it should work.

That said, given the choice I've always gone Shimano.

I read somewhere that just Avid uses washers, but can’t quite remember where.

I remember reading that here