Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • flat mount brakes with a flat handel bars

    The official line is Shimano BL-RS600 levers with BR-RS405 calipers. If you shop around hard and DIY you might get levers, calipers and hoses for £100. £200 fitted at a shop seems OK for those components, but not for something worse.

  • You did the install with the brake "arm" locked an then eliminate the slack through the adjustment as per instructions? There shouldn't be that much adjustment needed.
    I use pliers to get a good grip on the brake cable and pull it as toight as I can.
    Lemme grab them instructions from the interwebz

  • If you Google the pdf is one of the first hits. Screenshot attached


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  • That way round shouldn’t need any eccentric adapters. I hope most of that quote is labour.

  • Hey thanks for this (and the pdf etc). Yeah I followed the instructions pretty closely, including clamping the cable with the brake arm locked. Good shout with the pliers, I’ll give that a go. What levers are you using? I found some posts elsewhere saying that having lots of lever throw can be a thing with these callipers (and that Shimano levers can work better as they pull more cable)

  • SRAM S500 and avid flat bar.
    Both are braking well.
    I did add an inline cable adjuster though too. Cable discs are finicky and that gives me at least double the adjustment range.

  • Otherwise ignore the locking bolt and just use your fingerspitzengefühl. I do this with my spyres. I push the brake arm already a bit in while installing the cable so less lever throw is necessary.

  • Spyres have 3mm adjusters for each pad and are designed to work with the arm going all the way back but without any slack, hence the barrel adjuster.
    Do the Hy/rds need a bleed? They have a fair amount of throw but shouldn't be hitting the bars.

  • Will I die if I use some ordinary similar sized hex steel bolts for my disc brake mount? The OG torx ones are on the verge of rounding.


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  • Rounding a torx headed bolt is fairly impressive. Time for new tools, I think!

  • how are you rounding torx?! I should report you

  • If you're putting stainless steel screws into aluminium alloy threads, make sure you have Copaslip or similar thoroughly coating the threads.

  • how are you rounding torx?

    To be fair, it is a button head

  • They're annoying shallow too and there's often a bike frame making them awkward to reach.

  • Good question on whether the hy/rds need a bleed. They’re brand new so I’d guess not but might give it a try if nothing else sorts the lever throw out. Yeah setting up Spyres was straightforward compared to these so far!

  • I honestly don't know, being careful with Silca Torx set as well. The heads seem quite soft.

  • Attaching post mount brakes to a flat mount frame, I have my adapters for this. Am right in assuming that these can attach straight to the frame and don't need additional adaptors like a flat mount caliper would?

  • You need to have bought the right PM-FM adaptor for your disc rotor size. If that's correct, then that's it, all done

  • Aside from a leak, is there any other reason why there would be less fluid than there should be as well as some air in my hydraulic system?

    I went to ride my bike after it had sat for 2 weeks a couple of days ago. The rear lever immediately had a noticeable difference in feel; it was doing that thing where it gets progressively stiffer as you squeeze it in quick succession. Yesterday, I had a look in the lever reservoir and there was definitely less fluid than there should have been. So I attached the funnel and ‘burped’ the system to top it up and get the air out. The lever felt fine then (I think). But for some peace of mind, I took it into a shop today to have it looked at, however they reckon that if there was a leak then you’d already be able to feel a difference in the lever and the burping wouldn’t have helped. They’re going to keep it overnight to see anyway.

    I’m still learning hydraulic brake stuff so just don’t know what the reason for the air and lack of fluid could be if it’s not a leak?

  • Fucking hydros!

    Pulled my mtb out to chuck it in the car and go ride before work today and the front SLX brake was making the kinda howl that'll have you looking longingly at a bb7.

    About ten days ago I faced the mount, cleaned up the caliper, lubed the pistons etc and then did a decent ride a day or two later during which I did ride through several many rivers and a rotting sheep carcass but it seemed absolutely fine. Must have done something though as the back of one of the pads was damp and there was a spot on the rim that could have been a drip of oil.

    I have a spare mt200 rear brake so might chuck the caliper from that on, should be compatible right?

  • is there any reason that 160mm slx rotors and sora calipers wouldn't work together? Cannot for the life of me get them aligned (following park tools video as I have no clue about disc brakes). Using with an IS to post adapter if that's relevant at all.

  • Is your wheel in straight?

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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