Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I'm having the exact same thing on my bike. It's Di2 so nothing to do with cables. It's definitely gonna be a worn cassette. I'm replacing mine.

Right. New one ordered. Fingers crossed that sorts it.

I've got a Silca floor pump that I bought in '95. I replaced the leather gasket once and it's time to do it again. Is there any reason I couldn't just stack a couple of punched leather donuts as a replacement?
Thanks

It is bigger than the axle, which is why I wondered if it was designed to clear the red spacer 'under' the freehub perhaps?

The reason just to buy one is per your own words, replaced once.

Do it right, do it once, it's not worth your time to try to bodge something.

Well I have the leather, and to order a gasket would set me back about 60 bux… actually, about $35 through eBay.

Well, no ill informed measures were needed in the end, a little new grease and tightening the nut on the gasket and we’re back to full pressure. The gasket is rough around the edges buts it’s holding for now.

"You are correct, install the spacer with the metal side down, facing, the freehub outboard bearing (that you can see in your image)."

Hi all, I don't know if this is the right place to ask but...

Would an 11-30, 11-32 or even 11-34 cassette work on a 90s Shimano 105 RD-1056 rear derailleur?

Thanks

90s? Nah.

11-28 is the limit?

30 might fit with some fiddling of the b screw. Could use a wolftooth roadlink, if the derailleur has a long enough cage

hi, 4 q’s, increasing levels of hysteria: 1 have just bought a wheel with knackered bearings/cones. setting aside for a sec that the cups r probs shite too, where do I get replacement cones/bearings cheaply? it’s STXrc. 2 what do i do to clean/service an old Lev dropper without taking it apart? What should I spray it with basically? 3 i have a 10spd 42t cassette that won’t shift with my 10spd xt mech but EVERYONE on singletrack says this works with no extra
doodads. why doesn’t mine? the size of the ring at the front? Whhhhhhhy! 4 I am tempted to respray my commuter with no nonsense matt black. it gets great reviews: it will probably be shit, will it be shit?

1) Local bike shop
2) Not entirely sure, but lots of droppers you can unscrew the dust seal, extend the post and slap a bit of grease on the bushing. Usually that's enough to get it running better.
3) B-screw?
4) Yes.

Per #4, if you don’t mind touching up the paint on a weekly basis, or don’t mind the battle scarred look, give ‘er.

thanks both, deep bow of appreciation.

wait. is that how you spell bow? like bow and arrow? also, and i know this isn’t the any question thread, but someone spelt the word’moorish’ as in ‘mmm apple dipped in peanut butter’ last night, i couldn’t believe it

i thought clear coat over top but ruins the whole point of it, cos it’s not cheap anymore

Yep, better off to cheaply re-touch

i’m gonna get to the point of being happy with the build first and then take it all apart and get it properly done (without changing a single component in the process, haha, unlikely)

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Apologies to all who took the time to answer my gear slipping/crunching query. Turns out the problem was 'mechanic' error. Or more accurately, I hadn't done up the cassette lockring tight enough, which I discovered when taking it off to fit the new cassette I'd bought to replace it. So at least I have a spare cassette now.

Cones for old stx rc rear, try searching for shimano m430 cones, £3-4 each and decent enough quality, buy some 1/4" bearings from your lbs and your on a winner.
Shimano tech docs then insert code on the hub = the exact right cones, but 90s average hg hub all much of a muchness tbh

many many thanks!