I've got some wheels built with WTB ST Lite rims, which are shite and the spoke tension's all over the place. Some spokes have actually come fully loose. I think partly the problem is that it's a shallow rim with a low flange separation (it's 6 bolt/dynamo on the front) and partly I shouldn't have used grease on the spoke threads. I'm going to rebuild them with a decent rim either myself or at a shop.
For a "general" 32h wheelset for gravel, road, touring with 35mm-50mm tyre would you go Kinlin TL-23 at £40 or Kinlin RD-3FT at £75? Feel like 31mm depth/550g+ weight of the RD-3FT and 32 spokes might be extreme overkill, but on the other hand it might help with the spoke tension/flange problem
I have built stupid shallow and flexy Stans crest for myself and never had to worry about tension. I used anti seize in the threads too.
Unless the rims are too bad out of true/roundness it shouldn't be a problem, just rebuild and make sure you get your tension right and even.
The guy in the shop said that the rims were bent. I barely rode them at all, and then had a tubeless tyre blowout (in the flat) which put them miles out of true. Think the rims must just be a bit shit.
I've got some wheels built with WTB ST Lite rims, which are shite and the spoke tension's all over the place. Some spokes have actually come fully loose. I think partly the problem is that it's a shallow rim with a low flange separation (it's 6 bolt/dynamo on the front) and partly I shouldn't have used grease on the spoke threads. I'm going to rebuild them with a decent rim either myself or at a shop.
For a "general" 32h wheelset for gravel, road, touring with 35mm-50mm tyre would you go Kinlin TL-23 at £40 or Kinlin RD-3FT at £75? Feel like 31mm depth/550g+ weight of the RD-3FT and 32 spokes might be extreme overkill, but on the other hand it might help with the spoke tension/flange problem