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I need a seatpost clamp for this frame - looks to be 30mm external but that would suggest a 28.6 seatpost, right? There's nothing that would be 30 external and 27.2 internal?
It's a Roberts frame (no tubing decals to give a clue there) with seattube cut down before I got it as original top had cracked where overtightened. So .. a bit chicken& egg as have neither the clamp nor right size seatpost, only 27.2mm one which didn't seem that loose so now I'm a bit confused... Thanks in advance for any clarity.
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What does the internal measure as?
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As best I can measure, about 27 with the tube walls at 1.4mm. That's odd isn't it? Though writing this makes me think @M_V 's point about external butting might be on the money - these numbers would add up then. If that's right, then I'd need a 30mm clamp and hope that works with a 27.2 post. Just a bit nervous as it's getting closed to the brazing.
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The fillet brazing is super smooth - there's no obvious butting my inexperienced eyes/touch can tell. But I've just measured it below the top tube/seatstays and it's 28.6 so that would make sense then, I think i.e. 30mm above because of the butting and standard below? Thanks for this, very helpful.
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random mechanics question: I am thinking of cutting down a LH gripshift shifter. I want more grip, I want to run a trigger shifter on the right hand, I don't have a LH trigger shifter, I have big hands so I position my brake levers miles inboard anyway. I have practised using just the inner bit of the grip and it feels fine. Will I break the mechanism if I cut down the outer most 10mm?
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Given my (entirely rational) hatred of Gripshift, this is an experiment I'd heartily endorse. Best case, it works; worst case, one less* Gripshift.
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*fewer
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Gears slipping under pressure. Did a quick google search and that says it's probably cable tension, but I've pulled it tight enough so it can't be that, can it? Anything else it could be? It's really annoying. Indexing is just about OK (though not perfect), I've pre-stretched the cable. And it works fine if I'm just pootling, but any big increase in pressure on the pedal and it crunches.
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Mason x HUNT 650B Adventure Sport Disc
Anyone know which spacers are suppposed to go where?
Based on the Campag that came off it, I guess the red spacer goes behind the freehub and onto the wheel bearing.
The big seal is already in place, so that's a spare.
Does the smaller seal get pressed into the outside of the freehub? Metal side up or down?
Okay, found yet another Hunt video which seems to cover the wheels I'm working on...
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Chain's practically brand new, cassette isn't but is in very good condition
New chain and worn cassette will almost certainly be your issue, especially if it's mainly happening in the smaller cogs, otherwise you're looking at worn chainrings, but they look ok so maybe knackered freehub. Cable tension is an indexing issue, so if it's changing between gears look at that, if it's over the cogs but staying in gear you let the last chain get too worn and the teeth have worn to match it and now won't mesh with the new chain properly.
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Based on the Campag that came off it, I guess the red spacer goes behind the freehub and onto the wheel bearing.
The big seal is already in place, so that's a spare.
Does the smaller seal get pressed into the outside of the freehub? Metal side up or down?
That all sounds right, although the smaller seal seems like the internal hole is too big for the axle, maybe it's the camera, if it fits then whack it in metal side in, if not check it's not for the other side of the hub then throw it away and pretend you never saw it.
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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered
Posted by
Mr Brown was correct. I ran Biopace fixed for a few months (for a laugh) last century. The chain tension variation wasn’t different from that caused by the cheap chainrings and cogs I tended to use while a penniless student oaf.