-
• #6227
Anyone got any recommendations for an AOV rooflight?
-
• #6228
GlazingVision Vision Vent or xVent
-
• #6229
Why not go for composite boards? Millboard are very good.
-
• #6230
DIYable? Seem to remember looking in the past at them for decking and they gave off a 'you have to buy through a specific installer or gtfo' vibe
-
• #6231
You can buy them yourself - about £80 a board (3.6m)
You’d need to build a subframe to attach to or use construction adhesive.
-
• #6232
Excellent, thank you.
-
• #6233
I don't think that would be totally impossible to achieve with a bit of graft. If you keep them off the ground then should minimise the rotting element. Maybe a raised planter at the very bottom, with lots of gravel in the planter for drainage. Attach pre-made batten panels to wall nice and firm (;p) and should be on your way to something. Larch is pretty hardy and goes that nice silvery colour if untreated
-
• #6234
Is the stone wall damp? Adding a weatherboarding rainscreen might actually help by keeping the rain off but ensure plenty of ventilation been the timber cladding and stone wall. Gap at top (but think about how to cover to stop rain getting in) and bottom, with at least 5cm between back of cladding and stone. Maybe a bit more. You can use treated wood for less rotting eg Thermowood (heat treated) or Accoya (some kind of magic chemical treatment, don't understand it but it's pretty durable stuff).
Are you on the boundary to neighbours? Just keep in mind there might be fire issues with having combustible materials on or close to the boundary.
-
• #6235
? Just keep in mind there might be fire issues with having combustible materials on or close to the boundary
That's a good call, thank you
-
• #6236
Lots to sort out but it’s a total vibe here
1 Attachment
-
• #6237
🥵😮💨 very spicy
See a mini version of your patented incense burner there too
-
• #6238
Good spot! Hangin out with a little Tom Dixon number.
-
• #6239
That looks great. I love the glass bricks.
I'm hoping we can build them into our job somewhere.
-
• #6240
Yeah, not bad not bad...
Congrats!
-
• #6241
Love the glass bricks. Any idea what they are like insulation wise vs the doors?
-
• #6242
Yep that’s cracking
-
• #6243
That's incredible! Stupid question probably but you have exposed joists like that in the ceiling, is the insulation layer above them with other non visible joists?
-
• #6244
I did some american white oak fascia / mullion type things on my place - used osmo and followed their system to the letter - ie water resistant base coat, a coat of white exterior oil stain (for colour mainly) then two (maybe three) coats of clear exterior oil finish. They look good as new 2 yrs down the line. Quite exposed but also lots of air and light so not a direct comparison. If your client (!) wants a sharp finish then oiled timber is what you want i'd say and you'll need to re-oil on occasion. If you want a more natural weathered chic beach vibe - then a pre weathering product like SiouXX is nice to give a satin natural grey without streakiness and some protection.
Depending on where your damp / moisture comes from etc I'd tend to err more toward the side of 50mm vertical battens (in something water resistant or treated) screwed back into the wall but with sealant or edpm tape in between. Then screw your horizontal boards (again use edpm tape) to that. Accept it as a beefy trellis with some rainscreen benefits.
If you go for an actual wall cladding detail you'll need a proper head flashing detail into the wall over - to stop getting water down the back. And vent (and insect mesh) details top and bottom. And breather membrane behind the battens perhaps (not sure).
-
• #6245
Currently we have a distinct lack of objet d'art owing to a distinct lack of doors!
-
• #6246
This is great, thank you.
-
• #6247
Any idea what they are like insulation wise vs the doors
They're modern argon filled thermally broken ones - apparently a finished wall has a U value of 1.1. Sliding doors are double glazed 0.9, outward opening door is double glazed 1.4
-
• #6248
is the insulation layer above them with other non visible joists?
Nah, they're structural, so standard warm-roof build up. Rigid insulation above.
-
• #6249
I know there is a good practical reason why people tile all the way between the hob and the extractor, but I really feel like a section tiled like this will look better. There will be shelves in line with the bottom of the hood to the wall both sides. Dissuade me.
1 Attachment
-
• #6250
Why not an extra row (or two) just beneath the extractor?
Otherwise that gap might draw the eye more than the tiles.
Yep, I don't think it's the bamboo that caught her eye, more the hiding of an ugly wall with something that looks like someone has, at some point, used intent to make.
Timber stuff outdoors. We live in Devon where it rains 107% of the time. How much effort to maintain? The side return in question is a damp swamp. Warping? Installing onto a stone wall etc?
Basically anyone with experiencing of DIYing them care to share some advice?