Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Hey, sorry but no it’s not.

Have you used or owned any sram brakes before? I don't think this looks like anything to worry about right now.

The small hole is a breather hole for the bladder behind it. It lets air out as the bladder contracts and expands. If the bladder had torn, you'd probably see quite a lot of fluid coming out the small hole.
But the amount that has come out doesn't look like anything to worry about and the fact that the bike is brand new suggests that its unlikely both bladders are ruptured. More likely that they have had a slightly heavy handed(enough pressure on the syringe can force a tiny amount of fluid past the bladder) bleed and haven't been wiped down properly.

@farewell fwiw I have sram brakes on all my bikes, every now and then a tiny amount of fluid appears at the air hole, it's usually after uplift riding with lots of hard braking. I wipe it away and theres no problems.
Wipe it off and I doubt you'll see it return any time soon. To me, its quite normal with sram brakes.

To me, its quite normal with sram brakes.

I’ve seen and owned quite a few, no recollection of having noticed it before. Ymmv, hope it’s nothing then.

I took my bike back to the shop today. A mechanic looked over the counter at the levers and said it’s normal for them to “leak” fluid through breather holes. I asked about the front brake having a lower bite point and he said it’s because the hose is shorter.

I didn’t feel confident with his response so went back at the end of the day and spoke with another employee. He has booked it in for a proper inspection and rebleed.

can I be a bit of a dick and say you need to learn how to bleed properly and have a decent bleed kit?

I think its essential.

Do you? Don't you just ride the bike till it's fucked and then take in for a service?

i have a semi-fatwa on bike shops, I do everything in the shed except wheelbuilding. I am time-rich BUT i think brakes are an essential skill and sadly we are in the disc era.

Ah, time rich. I'll move along.

I took my bike in because of a broken spoke, after hearing the rear brake pads for the last month or so, I gave them some to replace as well.
Looking forward to finding out there's inherent problems and I should just burn the bike.

can I be a bit of a dick...

... and say that if you'd all bought M755/M756 XT brakes 20 years ago, you wouldn't be having all these problems

why not? genuine question. I have BR-M785, they are great but why are they Tester approved.

I am not a fan of banjo as i cant 'press' it in at home with pin pusher.

The first guy was correct.
Even after a rebleed it’s very likely there will be a slight difference in bite point.

Strongly agree with user Amey, bleeding sram brakes takes all of 10 minutes.

why not?

Because they're built like a tank. Shimano started by making a scale model of a motorcycle brake, and everything since has had robustness compromised by the marketing department who saw that lighter and sleeker would sell and fragility was a problem people would tolerate.

The playground rumour was that they were actually made by Nissin too.

it’s because the hose is shorter

lol wtaf

rumour was that they were actually made by Nissin

May have had help from Nissin with manufacturing, Japanese industry works like that. The other rumour is that the designers may have seen the Grimeca System 8 before sitting down at the drawing board 🙂

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how was there not an infringement law suit?!

If you're time rich, you could be building your own wheels! A good wheel is just about taking your time and following a process.

how was there not an infringement law suit?

It's possible to purchase elements of a design, from basic drawings to a full technical package. Shimano are usually reluctant to do that, but not insurmountably so. On the other hand, it could just be convergent design, there's nothing there that wasn't already common on moto brakes before either Shimano or Grimeca got into bicycle dick breaks

its on my list to learn along with swimming, I am time rich in comparison to only @Chalfie

Go for swimming, wheel building is making you time poor (at least when not doing it very often).

I do actually enjoy the wheel building process, nice way to take your minds off things.

At my own pace obviously...

It's why I still stick to older Shimano brakes. Servicing brakes on motorbikes so far makes me wonder why the cycling stuff is so delicate. Lighter braking components strikes me as marketing spiel. Who's idea was it that Ceramic pistons was a stellar idea?
The Nissin/Brembo Radial MC on one of the motorbikes takes about 5 minutes to bleed.

Big shout out to Seabass, again, for taking my broken rear wheel sticking a new spoke in, truing it up, sticking some new pads on the back brake and giving it a quick look over AND ordering me a new QR thru axle.

Is anyone using TRP hy/rd callipers with SRAM road levers? How was the setup process? I’ve just fitted this combo and the lever has so much movement before the brake calliper engages with the rotor. The lever is practically touching the handlebars (the shifter paddle is actually going beyond but the angle means it doesn’t actually touch). I can get the lever throw just about acceptable by winding the barrel adjuster on the calliper all the way out, but apparently that’s a no-no with these callipers as it breaks the self adjustment of the pads. Any advice appreciated!

Want to run a frame that takes flat mount brakes with a flat handel bars and have hydraulic brakes. It's mostly for commuting and possibly some light touring so not in need of anything special but a bike shop has quoted 200 squids which seems a little steep (does include labour mind). So could I do it cheeper? Most flat bar sets of course being post mount and the converting mounts aren't cheap.